FABRIC: denim
YOU NEED AS WELL: iron-on interfacing, 4
poppers, separated zipper.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE
CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE
CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams; 3-cm for hem and sleeve bottom edge.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric pieces).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE
MATCHING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back yoke – 1
piece
2. Centre back – 2
pieces
3. Side back – 2
pieces
4. Back facing – 1
piece
5. Front yoke – 2
pieces
6. Side front – 2 pieces
7. Centre front – 2
pieces
8. Epaulet – 2 pieces
9. Front facing – 2
pieces
10. Flap – 4 pieces
11. Collar – 2 pieces
12. Belt – 2 pieces
13. Sleeve – 2 pieces
14. Cuff – 2 pieces
Interfacing: front
facings, under collar, under flaps, back facing, belt.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Cut and iron the
interfacing to the wrong side of the under collar, under flaps, back neck
facing, belt, front facings.
2. Pin the pieces of
collar right side together and stitch around the collar. Cut the seam
allowances on the corners and turn the collar right side out.
3. Stitch and neaten the front curved edges. Press the seams towards the front center. Stitch and neaten the back curved seams. Press the seams backwards. Stitch and neaten the back centre seam. Press this seam to the right back piece.
4. Stitch the yoke to
the back, neaten this seam. Topstitch on the yoke 0.5cm above the seamline.
5. Put the top and
under flaps together right side inside and stitch around. Cut the seam allowance
on the curved corners and turn the flap inside out. Edgestitch the flap 0.5cm
in.
6. Place the flap on
the front yoke and topstitch it to the lower edge of the yoke between the
vertical marks. Stitch the yoke to the front piece. Neaten this seam, topstitch
it on the yoke 0.5cm above the edge.
7. Stitch the epaulet
to the front yoke and neaten the seam. Press the seam to the lapel and
topstitch 0.5cm in from the edge.
8. With right sides
together, stitch the belt pieces leaving unstitched slit in the side edge. Turn
the belt inside out through this hole. Press the belt and adjust it to the side
back seam according to the notches.
9. Sew the zipper to
the front centre edges. Neaten the outer edge of the front/neck facing. Pin the
front facing to the right side of the front face to face and stitch along the
edges, (working on the garment wrong side) then turn it right side out. Stitch
the facing shoulder edges.
Press the seams open.
10. Stitch and neaten
the side seams. Stitch the epaulet to the back yoke and neaten the seam; press
this seam to the epaulet and topstitch. Stitch the right end of the belt to the
centre front piece 5 cm in length. (This stitch should overlap the previously
made decorative stitch of the belt)
11. Neaten the lower
edge of the cuffs and the jacket hem. Stitch the cuffs to the lower edges of
the sleeves. Neaten these seams and topstitch them 0.5cm away from the seams.
Stitch and neaten the seams of the sleeves.
12. Stitch the
sleeves to the Jacket according to the notches.
13. Put the collar
between the jacket and the facing. Stitch the collar to the neckline; topstich
the jacket front opening 0.5cm in from the folding. Fix the facings to the epaulet
seams by hands.
14. Fix the upper
parts of the poppers to the flap and the bottom parts to the centre front piece
according to the marks. Also fix the upper parts of the poppers on the right
side of the belt and the bottom parts of the poppers on the left centre front
piece according to the marks.
Advise: For the best comfort you can fix the belt to the side
and relieve seems.