5353 JACKET WITH FLOUNCE
YOU WILL NEED: denim, iron-on interfacing, 1 button.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm
for sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before
sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width
(from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about
double and symmetric pieces).
WHEN
SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE MATCHING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1.
Centre back – 2 pieces
2.
Side back – 2 pieces
3.
Side front – 2 pieces
4.
Back neck facing – 1 piece
5.
Centre front – 2 pieces
6.
Under collar – 1 piece
7.
Top collar – 1 piece
8.
Front facing – 2 pieces
9.
Flounce – 2 pieces
10.
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
11.
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Interfacing:
front/back facing, under collar piece.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1.
Apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the front/back facing, under collar
piece.
2.
Make up and shape the collar.
3.
Stitch the back/front curved edges; neaten the seams. Press the front seams
towards the centre front, press the back seams
backwards.
4.
Neaten the front facing raw edges. Neaten the back facing raw edge.
5. With right sides together, pin the front facing to
the garment along the front edges.Stitch the facing. Trim the seam allowances.
Trim the seam allowances diagonally across the front corners. Press the seam
allowances away from the garment. Understitch next to the seam along the
closure segment; through the front piece and the seam allowance at the lapels.
Turn the facing to the wrong side, and press.
6.
Stitch and neaten the back centre seam. Press the
seam.
7.
Stitch the shoulder/side seams; neaten them. Press these seams backwards.
8.
Join the front and back neck facing across the shoulder seams; press the seams
open.
9.
Neaten sleeve elbow seams. Stitch them and press open.
10.
Stitch the sleeve front seams. Neaten them. Press the seams towards the front.
Press the sleeve hems.
11.
Stitch the sleeves to the armholes matching the notches; neaten the seams.
12.
Stitch the collar to the neckline.
13.
Stitch the flounce centre edges; neaten the seam. Press the seam to the right.
Stitch the flounce to the garment lower edge; neaten the joining seam. Fold the
front facing lower edges to the wrong side and sew them to the previously made
seam.
14.
Make buttonhole in the front right piece, sew button on the left piece.