FABRIC: denim
YOU NEED AS WELL: iron-on interfacing; cotton fabric for underlining; open-ended zip, short
zip.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE
SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hems.
ATTENTION! Before
sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from
90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about
double and symmetric pieces).
WHEN
SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE MATCHING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back – 1 piece
2. Right front – 1 piece
3. Left front – 1 piece
4. Detachable front piece – 3 pieces
5. Under collar – 1 piece
6. Top collar – 1 piece
7. Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Back – 1 piece
2. Front – 2 pieces
3. Sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
5. Big pocket bag – 2 pieces
Interfacing: under collar and
all pieces of the detachable front.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Iron
the interfacing to the wrong side of the under collar and detachable front
pieces.
2. Stitch
the top and under collar pieces right sides inside. Trim the seam allowances on
the corners. Turn the collar inside out.
3. Mark
and stitch back darts, press them backwards.
4. Stitch
the front dart lower parts and trim the extra fabric. Apply the interfacing to
the pocket entrance checking the pocket position. Cut the entrance. Make
diagonal cuts 1 – 1.5 cm from before the ends. Turn the allowances over through
this slit and press the entrance flat. Put the short zipper under the edges of
the pocket entrance with the zip teeth showing. Topstitch the entrance 0.2cm around.
Stitch the pocket bags to the seam allowances of the pocket entrance. Stitch
the bags together. Neaten the seam.
5. Stitch the zipper to the left front piece. Stitch the detachable front piece to the left front piece and topstitch it 0.2 cm away from the seam. Stitch the long zipper to the right front piece.
6. Pin the detachable front pieces to the right and left front pieces face to face and stitch along the central edges. Stitch it up to the collar notches. Stitch the lower edges of the detachable front pieces to the front pieces according to the hemline. Cut the seam allowances on the corners. Turn the edging right side out.
7. Stitch
the shoulder/side seams and press them backwards, topstitch the allowances
0.2cm away from the seams. Stitch the sleeve seams and press them. Stitch the
sleeves to the armholes according to the notches and topstitch 0.2cm away from
the seams.
8. Stitch
the underlining seams leaving a slit in the seam of the right sleeve. Stitch
the lining to the raw edges of the detachable front pieces. Stitch the collar
to the neckline. Topstitch the edging 0.2 cm. in along the front opening and
the collar.
9. Stitch
the lining to the bottom of the sleeves and the jacket hem. Turn the jacket inside
out through the right sleeve slit. Stitch this slit. Topstitch the bottom of
the sleeves and the hem 2cm above the foldlines.