5421 HELTER TOP

FABRIC: light silk or synthetic fabric, satin for the trimming.

SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1 cm for all seams.

YOU WILL ALSO NEED: zip, bias binding and iron-on interfacing

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric pieces).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE MATCHING!

CUTTING:

FABRIC:

1. Waistband 1 - 2 pieces

2. Waistband 2 – 2 pieces

3. Back - 2 pieces

4. Back trimming - 4 pieces

5. Front - 1 piece

6. Front trimming – 4 pieces

INTERFACING: front and back trimming.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the front trimming and the back trimming.

2. Neaten the garment side edges; stitch the side seams leaving an opening in the left seam. Press the seams open, pressing the split. Topstitch the split 0,5 cm in.

3. Make pleats at the shaped front opening; tack them. Finish the opening by applying the bias binding.

4. Stitch the back/front trimmings together across the side edges. Press the seams open. Stitch the trimming centre edges; press the seam open. With right sides inside, pin the top trimming and the under trimming together and stitch along the upper edge; stitch also along the lower edge between notches. Turn the trimming right side out and press. Press the under trimming lower edge for 1 cm under. With the side seams matching, stitch the top trimming to the garment.

5. Neaten the back centre edges; stitch the back centre seam up to the zipper notch; press the seam open; insert the zip. Slipstitch the trimming centre edges to the zip tape.

6. Make pleats along the garment lower edge.

7. Stitch the waistband 1 and the waistband 2 centre edges; press the seam open. With right sides inside, pin the top waistband and the under waistband together; stitch along: one long edge, the waistband ends and the waistband free parts of the lower edge. Press the under waistband raw edge under. Stitch the top waistband to the garment; press the seam allowances downwards.

8. Topstitch the under waistband to the previously made seam.