YOU NEED: wool or semi-wool, fusing, 1 button, lining, shoulder pad, sleeve heads.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR,
THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment
hem and sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150
cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Inner collar – 1 piece
2. Outer collar – 1 piece
3. Front part – 2 pieces
4. Pocket detail – 1 piece
5. Flap – 4 pieces
6. Front band – 2 pieces
7. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
8. Side part – 2 pieces
9. Back part – 2 pieces
10. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
11. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Front part – 2 pieces
2. Side part – 2 pieces
3. Back part – 2 pieces
4. Sacking – 4 pieces
5. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing:
front band, flap, pocket detail, front part, sleeve hem and garment hem, back
neckline facing.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front band, flap,
pocket detail, front part, hems, back neckline facing.
2. Sew back darts and press them towards back center.
Sew front darts and slash depths. Cut pocket entrance.
3. Fold pocket detail along the center wrong side out
and press it. Neaten corners of pocket detail, cut extra fabric in corners and
turn the pocket detail right side out. Press ready pocket detail. Mark bust
pocket’s place. Sew the pocket detail to front part, turn it upwards and
topstitch along sides.
4. Lay flaps on lining flaps, right sides together,
and overstitch. Slash flap corners allowances and turn them right side out. Lay
outer collar on inner collar and topstitch. Press seams.
5. Cut facings of slip side pocket. Tack pocket entrance. Press pocket facings along the center, wrong side inside. Mark auxiliary line on pocket facing, which is parallel to stitch bending of facing. Mark auxiliary line, which is parallel flap upper edge and measuring flap width, on flap. Mark auxiliary lines which are parallel to pocket entrance (for sewing the flap and pocket facings. Sew flap sacking to flap. Sew facings to front part (stop stitching near parallel pocket markings). Stitches must be parallel to each other. Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal notches at 1-1.5 cm from pocket end. Turn facings right side out through this slit; place pressed bending of facings line-on-line. Fix pocket ends with double reverse stitch at corner bases. Sew sacking to flap. Insert the flap into pocket and sew it to pocket outer facing. Sew inner sacking along seam joining inner facing, slash and sew sacking.
6. Pin front band to front part right sides together,
and overstitch along edging (at front part side up to the notch pointing end of
collar sewing in). Sew lower edges of front bands to front part, strictly along
hem line. Slash seams of upper/lower front band corners. Topstitch allowance of
front band overstitching: at closure – on front band, and lapels – on front
part band. Stitch at 0.2 cm from seam. Turn edgings right side out.
7. Sew back middle seam and press it apart. Sew
font/back relieves and press them apart. Sew side/shoulder edges and press them
apart.
8. Sew shoulder edges of facing of back neckline and
front band, then press apart. Sew inner collar into neckline, sew outer collar
into edge of back neckline facing.
9. Sew sleeve elbow seam and press it apart. Sew
sleeve front seam and press it apart. Press sleeve hems under.
10. Sew sleeves
into armholes coinciding notches. Sew shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
11. Sew lining details
and sew lining sleeves in, with a slit in front right seam of a sleeve.
12. Sew lining to inner edges of front band and back
neckline facing. Press joining seam allowances apart and fix near seams.
13. Sew
the slit into sleeve. Sew the lining to garment hem. Turn the garment right
side out through slit in the sleeve.
14. Make a buttonhole into wrote front part and sew
the button on left one.