YOU NEED: denim, fusing, 3 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR,
THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150
cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Belt loop – 1 piece
2. Center
back part – 2 pieces
3. Side back part – 2 pieces
4. Inner collar – 1 piece
5. Outer
collar – 1 piece
6. Side front part – 2 pieces
7. Center front part – 1 piece
8. Front band – 2 pieces
9. Pocket detail – 2 pieces
10. Sacking
– 4 pieces
11. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
12. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, pocket detail, pocket detail, front part, garment hem, sleeve hems.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to
wrong side of front band, pocket detail, pocket strengthener, front part,
garment hem, sleeve hems.
2. Neaten back middle seam, side edges of side front part and side back part, relieve edges of center front/center back parts, front/back shoulder edges.
3. Sew
front/back relieve seams, then press them apart.
4. Fold
pocket detail along the center, right side inside, and press. Neaten corners,
cut extra fabric in corners, and turn pocket detail right side out. Press the
detail.
5. Fold outer collar and inner collar together,
then overstitch. Turn the collar right side out, and
press it.
6. Mark
pocket detail with line of joining to front part, measuring the width. Mark
pocket place on front part. Lay pocket detail its wrong side (and ready edge
down) on right side of pocket lining’s one part, coinciding edges, with lining
edges beyond pocket detail at same width. Lay pocket detail on front part and
coincide marking of front part and pocket detail. Sew pocket detail to front
part (pocket detail of between front part and pocket lining). Turn the seam
joining pocket detail and lining towards pocket detail. Lay the rest of lining
on front part, right sides together, to seam joining pocket detail. Tack and
stitch it at 0.8-1 cm from seam joining pocket detail. Stitches must be
parallel to each other. Remove tacking. Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal
notches at 1-1.5 cm from pocket end. Turn pocket detail and sacking into wrong
side through this slit. Fix pocket ends on wrong side with reverse double
stitch along basing of corners. Sew sacking and neaten it. Tack pocket detail
to front part and press it. Topstitch pocket detail’s ends. Remove tacking.
7. Press edge of lower vent at 1 cm and topstitch on back
central part. Sew back middle edge. Press back middle seam apart stopping 5 cm
before the vent. Press the vent towards back center. Topstitch back middle seam
diagonally close to vent top, along marking, catching vent allowance.
8. Sew shoulder/side seams, and press them apart.
9. Neaten inner edge of front band. Pin front band and
front part right sides together, and overstitch along edging (on front part
side, sewing the collar in). Topstitch edging facing allowance as following: at
closure – on front band, at lapels – on front part edging (topstitch it at 0.2
cm from seams). Turn lapels right side out. Neaten seam joining the collar and
topstitch.
10. Sew
sleeve elbow seam and vent corners at sleeve upper/lower parts. Press elbow seam
apart, make a notch and press the vent.
11. Sew
sleeve front seam and press it apart.
12. Sew sleeves into armholes coinciding notches,
neaten joining seam.
13. Neaten garment
hem and sleeve hems, then press hems over along hemline and sew.
14. Make a buttonhole into front right edge,
sew the button on left one. Sew the button on sleeve vent.
15. Fold belt loop along the center, right side
inside, coincide edges and overstitch at 0.5-0.7 cm from edges. Turn right side
out, place the seam at bending or make edging of 0.1-0.2 cm to wrong side, then
press. Cut belt loops and topstitch on side seams.