5441 TROUSERS
WITH DECORATIVE ZIPPERS
YOU NEED: denim,
fusing, 1 zipper of 13 cm length, 1 button, 2 decorative zippers, 6 studs.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE
IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150
cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Side front part
– 2 pieces
2. Right front
part – 2 pieces
3. Left front part
– 2 pieces
4. Patch pocket –
2 pieces
5. Flap – 4 pieces
6. Patch pocket facing
– 2 pieces
7. Lower pocket –
1 piece
8. Lower flap – 2 pieces
9. Lower pocket
facing – 1 piece
10. Back part – 2 pieces
11. Right front
facing – 2 pieces
12. Left front
facing – 2 pieces
13. Button catch –
1 piece
14. Back facing –
2 pieces
15. Half-belt – 4 pieces
Lining:
1. Pocket
lining – 2 pieces
Fusing: right front facing, left front facing,
back facing, button catch, pocket entrance allowance.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing
to wrong side of right front facing and left font facing, back facing, button
catch and pocket entrance allowance.
2. Sew front
darts. Press darts downwards.
3. Neaten
relieve edge of right front part and left front part. Sew relieve seam of right
front /right back parts to notch. Press the relieve seam of front part apart
and press closure slit lower edges. Make decorative stitch along relieve seam,
to the notch. Sew the zipper in, with teeth visible.
4. Neaten pocket upper edge of front part with pocket
facing, than make decorative stitch. Fold side front part and pocket lining,
sew edges; neaten edges. Join side part and garment front part along upper
edge, with 3 cm stitch.
5. Neaten side
seam, than sew it and press apart.
6. Fold flap details right sides together, then overstitch along outer contour. Turn the flap right side out through upper open edge. Make decorative double stitch at 0.5 cm from flap edge. Do the same for lower flap. Mark pocket place. Neaten side edge of patch pocket facing. Stitch patch pocket facing to pocket side edge and lower edge, then neaten. Turn pocket upper edge into wrong side, then topstitch. Make a pleat into pocket facing, then sew it to pocket with vertical stitch of 1-1.5 cm. Topstitch the pocket along marking. Topstitch the flap along marking. Turn the flap into right side and topstitch at 0.5 cm from topstitch seam. Do the same for lower pocket.
7. Neaten:
front/middle edges and garment hem. Sew inside leg seam, then
neaten it. Press inside leg backwards. Sew front edge and middle edge to
closure notch. Make another stitch along notch seam close to seam joining front
edge and middle edge.
8. Fold button
catch along the center right side together, overstitch lower short edge. Turn button
catch right side out. Neaten inner edge of button catch and press, when ready.
Press one-piece facings of closure to wrong side. Sew the zipper under
allowance edge (left edge), sewing button catch. Sew zipper free braid to right
one-piece facing. Make decorative stitch along front right part, catching
facing.
9. Sew side edges of front facing and back facing,
press seams apart. Sew facings to garment upper edge and press joining seam
into facings.
10. Fold
half-belt along the center right side inside and overstitch, both edges. Slash
extra fabric in half-belt corners. Turn half-belt right side out, then press.
Mark place of half-belt at facings. Turn raw side edges of half-belt and
topstitch along marking.
11. Neaten lower edges’ outer edge. Fold facing right
sides together and neaten upper edge. Topstitch allowance facing on lower
facings at 0.2 cm from the seam (stop stitching 3 cm before ends). Topstitch
lower facings on seam joining upper edges; press it.
12. Press the hem
into wrong side, topstitch. Sew the button on left part. Make upper studs on flap, sew lower studs on pockets, according to marks.