YOU NEED: wool or semi-wool, fusing, 1 button, zipper, decorative braid, lining.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR,
THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment
hem and sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150
cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric
details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Front yoke – 2 pieces
2. Center
front part – 2 pieces
3. Lower front part – 2 pieces
4. Flap – 4 pieces
5. Lower
front part - 2 pieces
6. Center back part – 2 pieces
7. Back yoke – 2 pieces
8. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
9. Front brand – 2 pieces
10. Sleeve
elbow – 2 pieces
11. Front
sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Sacking
– 4 pieces
Fusing: front
band, flap, front part, back neckline facing.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Sew front darts and
press them.
2. Sew
front yoke to center front part. Neaten joining seam and press it towards
center front part. Topstitch decorative braid.
3. Sew
back yoke to back central part. Neaten joining seam and press it towards center
back part.
4. Sew
lower back part to central part. Neaten the seam and press it towards lower
back part.
5. Sew back middle seam, neaten it and press towards right back part. Topstitch decorative braid on seam joining yoke and lower back part.
6. Fold
flap details right side inside and overstitch it. Slash allowances of flap
corners and turn them right side out. Press read flap.
7. Sew the flap to center front part. Lay sacking on center front part and lower front part right sides together (in according to notches) and sew it. Neaten lower edge of center front part and lower front part’s upper edge. Turn the seam sideward and topstitch it on pocket lining. Sew lower front part to center front part. Sew them and neaten sacking. Topstitch decorative braid on seam joining lower front part.
8. Sew side/shoulder seams, neaten them and press backwards.
9. Sew sleeve upper seam and neaten it. Press the seam towards front sleeve.
Sew sleeve lower edge, neaten it and press towards sleeve elbow part.
10. Sew the zipper to front parts.
11. Sew sleeves into armholes according to notches.
12. Sew shoulder edges of front band and back neckline facing. Press shoulder seams apart and neaten outer edge of front band and back neckline facing.
13 Lay front band on front part
right sides together, pin and overstitch front/back neckline and edging
(overstitch on the front part side). Mark hemline. Sew lower edge of front band
to front part strictly along marked hemline. Cut seams of upper/lower corners
of edging. Turn edgings right side out. Topstitch braid along edging and
front/back neckline. Fix back necking facing to shoulder seam of garment with
stitch of 1 cm.
14. Press the hem over along hemline
and topstitch.