YOU NEED: denim, fusing, zipper, 1
button, 4 eyelets.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR,
THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 2 cm for hem. 2 cm for pocket upper edge and pocket side.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150
cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Front insert – 2 pieces
2. Patch pocket
– 2 pieces
3. Flap – 4 pieces
4. Pocket side – 2 pieces
5. Front panel – 2 pieces
6. Back panel – 2 pieces
7. Small sacking – 2 pieces
8. Large sacking – 2 pieces
9. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
10. Button catch – 1 piece
11. Waistband – 1 piece
Fusing:
waistband; button catch; pocket entrance stripe.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply
the fusing to wrong side of waistband and button catch.
2. Sew back
darts. Press darts towards back center.
3. Sew
insert to front panel. Neaten the seam and make decorative stitch at 0.5 from
joining seam.
4. Mark
off-set welt place. Press it along the center right side together.
Overstitch off-ser welt corners, slash corner allowances and turn off-set welt
right side out. Press ready off-set welt.
5.
Reinforce slit pocket place into front panel. Mark line of sewing off-set welt
to garment on off-set welt, measuring the width. Mark pocket place on front
panel. Lay off-set welt right side on right side of one part of pocket lining,
with ready edge down, coinciding edges and with lining edges equally out of
off-set welt boards. Lay off-set welt on font part and coincide marked lines.
Sew off-set welt to the garment (off-set welt should be between front panel and
pocket lining). Fold joining seam of off-set welt and lining towards off-set
welt. Lay lining second part on front part, right sides together, side-to-side,
to seam joining off-set welt, tack sew at 0.8-1 cm from seam joining off-set
welt. Check sewing of off-set welt and pocket lining from wrong side (stitches
must be parallel). Remove
tacking. Cut pocket
entrance. Make diagonal cuts at 1-1.5 cm from pocket ends.
Turn
off-set welt and lining wrong side out through this slit. Fix pocket corners
with reverse double stitch n wrong side along corner bases. Sew pocket lining
and neaten it. Sew off-set welt to front part and press it. Topstitch off-set
welt. Remove tacking.
6. Neaten side edges of front/back panels. Sew side seams of back panel and press them apart.
7. Mark
patch pocket place. Neaten pocket side outer edge and press it. Sew side part
to pocket and neaten joining seam. Neaten upper/lower pocket edges. Press
upper/lower edges to wrong side. Topstitch pocket upper edge at 1/5 cm from
edge. Tack patch pocket and topstitch side part at 0.2 cm from edge, stopping
at 2-2.5 cm from end. Topstitch pocket lower edge and make 2-2.5 fix stitches
at pocket lower corners.
8. Lay
flaps right sides together and overstitch them. Slash
allowances of flap corners and turn it right side out. Press ready flap. Neaten
flap upper edge. Sew the flap to the garment, then fold it out and topstitch at
0.5 cm from joining seam.
9. Sew
back middle seam. Neaten the seam and pres it, make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm
from middle seam.
10.
Neaten front middle edge. Sew font middle seam between slit notch ad closure notch. Press middle seam and make decorative stitch at 0.5
cm from middle seam.
11. Press closure one-piece facings to wrong side. Sew
the zipper under closure left allowance along edge. Sew zipper free braid to
right edge to one-piece facing. Fold button catch along the center and
overstitch lower short edge. Topstitch closure one-piece facing button catch on
skirt left edge. Topstitch lit right edge catching facing.
12. Make eyelets in the
waistband. Press the waistband along the center right side out. Neaten
waistband lower edge. Sew waistband to the garment. Overstitch waistband ends.
Slash extra fabric and turn ends right side out. Topstitch ready end along seam
joining waistband.
13. Neaten the hem. Press the hem to wrong side and
topstitch. Pull the cord into the waistband. Male a buttonhole into waistband
right end, sew a button on left.