5467 OVERALLS
YOU NEED: denim; fusing; 1 long zipper; 3 short zippers; 1
stud; 1 clasp; 5 eyelets.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams. 3
cm for hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150
cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Collar – 2 pieces
2. Center front
leg – 2 pieces
3. Side front leg
– 2 pieces
4. Center back leg
– 2 pieces
5. Side back leg –
2 pieces
6. Center back
part – 2 pieces
7. Side back part
– 2 pieces
8. Side front part
– 2 pieces
9. Center front
part – 2 pieces
10. Bust pocket –
2 pieces
11. Patch pocket –
1 piece
12. Decorative leg
half-belt – 1 piece
13. Decorative
pocket – 1 piece
14. Front band – 2
pieces
15. Belt loop – 1 piece
16. Belt – 1 piece
17. Decorative
pocket facing – 1 piece
Fusing: belt, outer collar, front band, pocket
entrance stripe.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the
fusing to wrong side of belt, outer collar, front band, pocket
entrance stripe.
2. Sew back middle
edge. Neaten back middle seam and press it towards right front part.
3. Sew front/back
relieve seams. Neaten relieve seams and press them towards the center. Male
decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from relieve seams.
4. Sew
side/shoulder seams. Neaten side/shoulder seams. Press side/shoulder seams
backwards.
5. Neaten
decorative leg half-belt along contour and press allowances at 1 cm leaving on
of edges unpressed. Neaten decorative pocket along
contour leaving upper rounded edge unpressed. Neaten
decorative pocket facing lower edge, press at 1 cm and topstitch. Lay
decorative pocket facing on pocket right sides together and overstitch. Cut
extra allowances at pocket rounded corners and turn the pocket right side out.
Press decorative pocket allowances according to patter and make decorative
stitch at 0.5 cm from edge along upper rounded edge. Topstitch decorative
pocket on leg half-belt leaving pocket entrance unstitched. Make the stud. Mark
leg half-belt on the garment and topstitch along contour.
6. Sew relieve
seams into back leg. Neaten seams and press towards side back leg. Make
decorative stitch along relieve seam at 0.5 cm. Stitch relieve seams into front
leg. Neaten seams and press them towards side front leg. Make decorative stitch
along relive seam at 0.5 cm.
7. Sew inside leg
seams. Neaten inside leg seams and press the backwards.
8. Sew side edges
of garment lower part. Neaten side seams and press them backwards.
9. Neaten edges:
crotch edge and front middle edge. Stitch crotch edge and front edge to closure
notch. Make another stitch along crotch seam, close to stitch joining front and
middle seam.
10. Neaten bust pocket along contour. Mark zipper
place on the pocket. Cut fabric
facings. Apply pocket entrance stripe to wrong side on pocket entrance and adjust
zipper place. Stitch facings along marking. Adjust facings on wrong side
(stitches must be parallel). Cut pocket entrance and make diagonal notches at
1-1.5 cm from pocket ends. Turn allowance wrong side out through this slit.
Neaten facings. Sew the zipper under facing with its teeth visible.
Topstitch pocket entrance along edge at 0.2 cm distance. Press bust pocket allowance at 1 cm.
11. Neaten patch
pocket along contour. Press patch pocket allowance at 1 cm. Mark zipper place
and process in the same way as bust pocket. Mark [lace on
patch pocket and
topstitch it on 0.2 cm from
edge.
12. Overstitch inner collar with outer one; turn the collar right side out and topstitch.
13. Sew garment lower part to upper one. Neaten joining seam and press
it downwards. Sew the zipper to notch.
14. Neaten inner edge of front bands. Overstitch garment front middle
edges with front bands.
15. Sew the collar into neckline inserting it between front bands.
Neaten seam joining the collar and topstitch allowance on back neckline. Make
decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from zipper.
16. Neaten armhole edge, press it and topstitch upwards.
17. Fold belt loop along the center right side in,
adjust edges and overstitch at 0.5-0.7 cm from edges. Then turn it right side
out; pace the seam at bending or make edging of 0.1-0.2 cm to inner side;
press.
18. Cut belt loops according to size and topstitch on
garment side/middle seams at belt.
19. Fold the belt along the center right side in.
Overstitch it along three edges leaving a slit. Turn the belt right side out
and press when ready. Make decorative stitch along belt contour at 0.5 cm from
edge. Put the clasp, turn waistband end to wrong side and topstitch making a
loop. Make eyelets into belt. Pull the belt in.
20. Neaten garment hem. Fold it under and press, then
topstitch on the garment.