YOU NEED: denim, fusing, 1 zipper, 1
button, cotton lining.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Upper back part
– 2 pieces
2. Lower back part
– 2 pieces
3. Back facing – 2
pieces
4. Right front
facing – 2 pieces
5. Left front
facing – 2 pieces
6. Button catch –
1 piece
7. Lower front
part – 2 pieces
8. Middle front
part – 2 pieces
9. Side right
front part – 1 piece
10. Right front
part –1 piece
11. Left front
part – 1 piece
12. Side left
front part – 1 piece
13. Side – 1 piece
14. Patch pocket –
1 piece
15. Flap – 2
pieces
16. Belt loops – 1
piece
Lining:
1. Sacking – 2
pieces
Fusing: left/right front facing, back facing,
flap, button catch.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the
fusing to wrong side of left/right front facing, back facing, flap, button
catch.
2. Stitch side
edges of front facings to back facing. Press facings’ side seams
apart.
3. Stitch middle
front part to left front part. Neaten joining seam and, press it towards middle
part and make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from joining seam. Stitch lower front
part to middle part. Neaten joining seam, press it apart and make decorative
stitch at 0.5 cm from joining seam. Stitch left side part to left front part.
Neaten joining seam, press it apart and make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from
joining seam. Stitch details of right front part in the same way.
4. Stitch lower
back part to upper back part. Neaten the seam, press it downwards and make
decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from joining seam.
5. Stitch back
darts. Press darts
towards the center.
6. Lay pocket
lining on front part right sides together and overstitch pocket entrance.
Neaten joining seam and slash corner allowance. Make decorative stitch along
pocket entrance at 0.5 cm from pocket edge and press it. Remove tacking. Lay
front part to marks on side front part marking pocket entrance. Sew side front
part to front part along upper/side edges with 1 cm stitch. Stitch pocket
lining and neaten it.
7. Neaten
following edges: side edge, leg inside edge, front middle edge and flying front
edge, back middle edge.
8. Lay flap details right side together and overstitch
them. Cut allowances in flap corners and turn the detail right side out. Make
decorative stitch along flap outer contour at 0.5 cm from edge. Neaten flap
upper edge.
9. Neaten pocket
outer contour and press it according to pattern. Topstitch upper edge on the
pocket, mark pocket place on front/back parts and topstitch the pocket
according to contour at 0.2 cm from pocket edge. Topstitch the flap according
to marks. Fold the flap into right side and topstitch it at 0.5 cm from the
seam.
10. Stitch side
seams and press them apart. Stitch leg inside seams and press them apart.
11. Sew front edge
and middle edge to closure notch. Make another stitch along crotch seam neat
stitch joining front and middle seams. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from
seam.
12. Press
one-piece closure facings to wrong side. Sew the zipper under closure allowance
(left edge) along edge. Sew zipper free braid to right one-piece facing. Fold
button catch along the center and overstitch lower short edge. Topstitch one-piece
closure facing on button catch on garment left edge. Topstitch slit right edge
catching facing.
13. Lay
facing details right sides together and overstitch upper edge. Turn facings
right side out and press them. Trim overstitching and make an edging.
14. Neaten lower
facing outer edges. Cut belt loops according to sizes and mark belt loops
place. Sew belt loops to facing lower edges. Sew facings to garment upper edge
coinciding side seams. Overstitch facing corners. Slash corner allowances, turn
them right side out and press them. Topstitch facing ready edge at 0.5 cm from
the seam joining facings. Make decorative stitch along facing contour. Remove
tacking and topstitch belt loops on facings’ upper edge.
15. Neaten hems
and press them into wrong side. Topstitch the allowances on the garment. Make
buttonholes into right facing, sew buttons on left one.