YOU NEED: natural fabric, fusing, 1 zipper, 1 button, cotton
lining, decorative cord.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150
cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Front part – 2 pieces
2. Side part – 2 pieces
3. Side pocket – 1 piece
4. Side flap – 2 pieces
5. Back part – 2 pieces
6. Button catch – 1 piece
7. Waistband – 2 pieces
8. Belt loop – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Pocket – 2 pieces
Fusing: flap, waistband, button catch.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of flap, waistband, button catch.
2. Stitch back darts.
3. Lay pocket lining
on front part right sides together and overstitch pocket entrance. Neaten
joining seam and slash corner allowance. Make decorative stitch along pocket
entrance at 0.5 cm from pocket edge and press it. Remove tacking. Lay front
part to marks on side front part marking pocket
entrance. Sew side front part to front part along upper/side edges with 1 cm
stitch. Stitch pocket lining and neaten it.
4. Neaten side edges, leg inside edges, middle front
ends and flying front edge, crotch edge and garment hems.
5. Press hem allowances into wrong side and topstitch
them on the garment.
6. Stitch side seams and press them apart. Topstitch
side seam allowances down to the notch at equal distance from seam.
7. Lay flap
details right side together and overstitch them. Cut allowances in flap corners
and turn the detail right side out. Make decorative stitch along flap outer
contour at 0.5 cm from edge. Neaten flap outer edge.
8. Neaten pocket outer contour and press it according
to pattern. Topstitch upper edge on the pocket, mark pocket place on front/back
parts and topstitch the pocket according to contour at 0.2 cm from pocket edge.
Topstitch the flap according to marks. Fold the flap into right side and
topstitch it at 0.5 cm from the seam.
9. Fold the
loop belt along the center and overstitch at 0.5-0.7 cm from edges. Turn the
detail right side out, placing seam at fold or make edging of 0.1-0.2 cm width
into wrong side, and press.
10. Stitch leg
inside seams and press them apart. Topstitch inside seams’ allowances down to
notches at equal distance from the seam.
11. Sew front edge and
middle edge to closure notch. Make another stitch along crotch seam neat stitch
joining front and middle seams.
12. Press
one-piece closure facings to wrong side. Sew the zipper under closure allowance
(left edge) along edge. Sew zipper free braid to right one-piece facing. Fold
button catch along the center and overstitch lower short edge. Topstitch
one-piece closure facing on button catch on garment left edge. Topstitch slit
right edge catching facing.
13. Neaten
lower edge of inner waistband. Lay waistband details right sides together and
overstitch waistband upper edge. Topstitch overstitching allowance on inner
waistband at 0.2cm from the seam; stop stitching 3-3.5 cm before waistband
ends.
14. Cut belt loops according to size, mark places and
stitch loops to outer waistband’s lower edge. Stitch the waistband to upper
edge and overstitch waistband’s corners. Slash corners and turn the waistband
right side out. Topstitch neatened edge on the seam joining the waistband.
15. Cut the cord and pull it into coulisses of side
seam and leg inside seam.