YOU NEED: artificial/natural leather,
fusing, 9 buttons, lining.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams. 0 cm for garment
hem, front part edge and front band, collar flying part up to stitching in
mark, for yoke outer edge, pocket upper/side/lower edges, for garment hem
facing lower edges, for cuff side/lower edges.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Center lower back facing – 1 piece
2. Side lower back facing – 2 pieces
3. Front lower facing – 2 pieces
4. Patch pocket – 2 pieces
5. Yoke – 2 pieces
6. Center back part – 2 pieces
7. Side
back part – 2 pieces
8. Inner collar – 1 piece
9. Outer collar – 1 piece
10. Side
front part – 2 pieces
11. Center upper front part – 2 pieces
12. Center lower front part – 2 pieces
13. Front band – 2 pieces
14. Back
neckline facing – 1 piece
15. Yoke pocket facing – 2 pieces
16. Patch pocket facing – 2 pieces
17. Sleeve
– 2 pieces
18. Cuff –
4 pieces
Lining:
1. Center back part – 2 pieces
2. Side
back part – 2 pieces
3. Side
front part – 2 pieces
4. Center upper front part – 2 pieces
5. Center lower front part – 2 pieces
6. Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, pocket facing, back neckline facing, lower front facing, lower back
facing, aides facing.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the facing to wrong
side of front band, pocket facing, back neckline facing, lower front facing,
lower back facing, aides facing.
2. Mark
darts on front/back parts. Stitch back darts and press them towards the center.
Stitch front darts and slash depths. Make decorative stitch at 0.2 cm from
darts.
3. Sew
upper front detail to lower front detail. Press allowance upwards. Sew side
front part to center front part and press the seam apart.
4. Lay yoke pocket facing on the yoke right sides together, then sew them together along marked lines. Check whether facing is stitched correctly (on wrong side, stitches must be parallel to each other, the distance between them is ready facing double width). Slit pocket entrance. Make diagonal slits at 1-1.5 cm from pocket ends. Turn pocket facing wrong side out through this hole. Fix pocket ends on wrong side with reverse double stitch along base of corners. Make decorative stitch along pocket entrance. Lay yoke’s wrong side on front part’s right side and topstitch it along outer contour.
5.
Process slit pocket on patch pocket by analogy. Lay patch pocket’s wrong side
on lower front part’s right side and topstitch along three sides.
6. Sew
middle back seam and press it. Sew back relieves and press them. Make
decorative stitch along seams. Sew side/shoulder seams and press them apart.
7. Sew
back neckline facing to front bands. Stitch outer collar into jacket neckline,
stitch inner collar into facing neckline.
8. Lay front band with collar on front part wrong sides
together, pin, and stitch along edging and collar. Press collar joining seam
allowances apart and fix them close to seams.
9. Fold
cuffs right side out and topstitch along thee sides. Fold a cuff in a ring
along marked line, and fix. Sew cuffs to sleeves, press seams towards sleeves.
Make decorative stitch along seams joining cuffs. Sew sleeves into armholes
according to notches.
11. Sew
lower front facing, lower back facing and side facing together. Press seams
apart. Sew darts into lining details, sew seams and sew sleeves into armholes.
Press lining allowances. Sew hem facing to lining Press the seam towards the
lining. Sew the lining to front band inner edges and neckline facing. Turn the
jacket right side out.
12.
Coincide jacket hem and facing hems and topstitch. Turn lining sleeve hem under
and topstitch.
13. Make buttonholes into right front part and sew
buttons on left one. Sew buttons to sleeve cuffs.