5476 JACKET WITH EPAULETTES
YOU NEED: fabric suitable for raincoats, fusing, 7
buttons, clasp, lining
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 for hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Collar – 2 pieces
2. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces
3. Cuff –
2 pieces
4. Sleeve
– 2 pieces
5. Pocket
– 2 pieces
6. Front
pocket flap – 4 pieces
7. Upper
pocket big sacking – 1 piece
8. Front
part – 2 pieces
9. Back
part – 2 pieces
10. Belt
loop – 1 piece
11. Belt –
1 piece
12. Epaulette – 4 pieces
13. Front band – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Upper
pocket small sacking
Fusing: flap, epaulette,
front band, cuff, reinforcement stripe.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing on wrong
side of flap, epaulette, front band, cuff, reinforcement stripe.
2. Lay
collar details right sides together and overstitch along the contour. Slash
collar corners and turn them right side out. Press the collar.
3. Mark patch pocket place at front part. Reinforce
pocket entrance with reinforcement stripe. Cut pocket facings. Press pocket
facings along the center right side out. Mark auxiliary line at pocket facings
parallel to facing bend, for stitching it. Mark auxiliary line parallel to
pocket entrance to stitch facing. Stitch facings to front part. Stop stitching
at pocket parallel marking. Check if facings are stitched correctly (on wrong
side, stitches must be parallel). Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal notches at
1-1.5 cm from pocket ends. Turn facings into wrong side through this hole,
check facing ends. Reinforce pocket ends on wrong side with double reverse
stitch along corner base. Lay the zipper under pocket entrance with its teeth
visible. Stitch the zipper in and stitch big/small sackings to facing
allowances. Stitch sacking and neaten it.
4. Lay
flap details right sides together and overstitch them. Cut flap corner
allowances and turn right side out. Press ready flap. Neaten flap upper edge.
5. Neaten
patch pocket upper edge. Press patch pocket upper edge and topstitch. Neaten
patch pocket outer contour and press allowance according to patter.
6. Mark
pocket and flap place on front part. Topstitch the pocket on front part at 0.2
cm from pocket edge. Stitch the pocket according to marking, fold it out and
topstitch.
7. Lay
epaulette details, overstitch along the contour, leaving upper edge free. Turn
the epaulette, press and make decorative stitch along the contour.
8. Fold the belt along the center, right side in.
Overstitch the belt along three edges leaving a hole for turning right side
out. Turn the belt right side out and press it. Make decorative stitch along
belt contour at 0.5 cm from edge. Set a clasp on the belt. Fold belt end into
wrong side, making a loop, and topstitch it.
9. Neaten
front band outer edge. Pin front band on front part and overstitch along marked
line (from front part side). Stitch front band lower edges to front part
strictly along marked hem line. Cut edging lower corners seams allowance.
Remove pins. Turn edgings right side out and press seams. Fix front neckline
edge to front band.
10. Neaten back middle edge. Stitch the back middle
seam and press it apart.
11. Neaten shoulder/side edges. Press shoulder/side
apart. Stitch the epaulette on shoulder seam at armhole edge at 0.5 cm
distance. Neaten garment lower edge.
12. Fold belt loop along the center wrong side out,
coincide edges and overstitch at 0.5-0.7 cm from edges. Then turn right side
out, place the seam at bending or making edging of 0.1-0.2-cm width into wrong
side, and press it. Cut belt loops according to marking. Topstitch belt loops
on side seams at waist level.
13. Stitch stand-up collars inserting the collar between them.
14. Stitch lower stand-up with collar into neckline, fold outer stand-up
upper edge under and topstitch along seam joining inner stand-up. Make
decorative stitch along the collar. Fix front bands at shoulder seams with 1-cm
stitch.
15. Neaten sleeve edges. Stitch sleeve edges together and press apart.
16. Press the cuff along the center right side out.
Stitch cuff side edges together (cuff unfolded) and press apart. Press cuff lower edge.
17. Stitch cuffs to sleeve hems and neaten cuff upper
edges together with sleeves. Topstitch the seam joining cuff towards sleeve.
18. Stitch sleeve easing sleeve caps.
19. Fold garment hem under and topstitch.
20. Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons on left one. Sew buttons on epaulettes.