YOU NEED: fabric suitable for raincoat, fusing, 1
separable zipper, 7 clasps, eyelets, lining, 2 zippers for pocket, shoulder
pads.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3.5 cm for garment
hem and 3 cm for sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Facing:
1. Placket for zipper – 2 pieces
2.
Stand-up collar – 2 pieces
3. Center
back part – 2 pieces
4. Side
back part – 2 pieces
5. Side
front part – 2 pieces
6. Center
front part – 2 pieces
7. Front
band – 2 pieces
8. Patch
pocket – 2 pieces
9. Upper
pocket facing – 2 pieces
10. Upper
pocket big lining – 1 piece
11.
Off-set welt – 4 pieces
12. Belt
loop – 1 piece
13. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
14. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
15. Belt –
4 pieces
16. Collar
half-belt – 1 piece
17. Belt
loop for clasp – 6 pieces
18. Sleeve
half-belt – 2 pieces
19. Back
neckline facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Upper
pocket small lining – 1 piece
2. Center back part – 2 pieces
3. Side back part – 2 pieces
4. Center front part – 2 pieces
5. Side front part – 2 pieces
6. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Patch pocket lining – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, center
front part, stand-up collar, off-set welt, placket, reinforcement stripe.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to front
band, center
front part, stand-up collar, off-set welt, placket, reinforcement stripe.
2. Sew
front darts. Slash dart depths and press darts apart. Make decorative stitch
along dart at 0.5 cm distance. Sew front relieve seams and press them. Make
decorative stitch along relieve seam at 0.5 cm distance.
3. Sew
back darts. Press them toward center and make a decorative stitch along darts
at 0.5 cm distance. Sew back relieve edges and press them. Make decorative
stitch along relieve seams at 0.5 cm distance. Sew back middle edge and press
it. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from middle seam.
4. Mark
upper pocket place at front part. Reinforce pocket entrance with reinforcement
stripe. Check place of upper pocket on front part. Press pocket facings along
the center, right side out. Mark auxiliary line at pocket facings, parallel to
facing bend, to stitch it. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to pocket entrance to
stitch pocket facings. Sew facings to front part. Finish stitching at pocket
marking parallel lines. Check whether facings are stitch correctly (on wrong
side: stitches must be parallel). Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal slits at
1-1.5 from pocket ends. Turn facings right side out through this hole, check
facing ends. Fix pocket ends on wrong side with reverse double stitch along
corner base. Lay the zipper under pocket entrance edge with its teeth visible.
Sew the zipper in and sew pocket lining to facing allowance. Sew pocket lining
and neaten.
5. Lay
off-set welt details right sides together and overstitch off-set welt upper
edge. Press off-set welt. Mark welt place on front part. Mark line of stitching
the welt to pocket, measuring the width. Tack the welt on the pocket coinciding
marked lines. Lay pocket details and pocket lining and welt, and stitch. Check
whether pocket and welt are correctly stitches (on wrong side: stitches must be
parallel, distance between them equal to ready off-set welt). Remove tacking.
Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal slits at 1-1.5 cm from pocket
ends (do not cut off-set welt!). Turn pocket lining and welt wrong side out
through this hole. Fix pocket ends on wrong side with reverse double stitch
along corner bases. Press upper/lower pockets edges according to pattern,
allowances inside. Topstitch the pocket on front part.
6. Fold half-belt along the center, wrong side out.
Overstitch collar half-belt along three edges leaving small hole for turning
our. Turn half-belt right side out and press it. Make decorative stitch along
half-belt contour at 0.2 cm from edge. Set the clasp on the half-belt. Fold
half-belt end into wrong side to make a loop, and topstitch. Make eyelets into
half-belt. Do the same for clasp half-belt, sleeve half-belt and waistband
half-belt.
7. Fold belt loop along the center, wrong side out,
make edges equal and overstitch at 0.5-0.7 cm from edges. Then turn it right
side out and check the seam placing it on bending or make edging of 0.1-0.2-cm
width into wrong side, and press. Cut belt loops according to marking.
8. Stitch waistband to side front part allowance
according to notches. Stitch half-belts with clasps to center front part and to
front sleeve, then turn out and topstitch. Stitch sleeve half-belt to sleeve
elbow edge allowance.
9. Stitch
shoulder/side edges and press them apart. Stitch the stand-up into front/back
necklines. Fold the placket along the center, wrong side out, and overstitch
upper/lower corners. Slash corners and turn the placket right side out. Stitch
the zipper to placket (please note: right placket is outer on, left placket in
inner one).
10. Stitch shoulder edges of front band and facing and
press seams apart. Stitch lining details and sew sleeves into armholes leaving
a hole into sleeve right front seam. Press lining allowance under. Stitch the
lining to front band inner edges and to stand-up collar.
11. Lay ready plackets to front parts. Check details
on right front part: front part detail, placket, zipper; on left front part:
front part detail, zipper, placket (see technical sketch). Stitch the placket
to front part. Lay front band on front part and overstitch lower corner edging
and collar upper edge with one stitch. Slash corners, turn them right side out and
press. Topstitch belt loops on stand-up according to marking. Remove pins. Press allowances of seam joining the
stand-up apart and fix close to seams.
12. Stitch
sleeve elbow edge and press it apart. Stitch sleeve front edge and pres it
apart. Press sleeve hems under.
13. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
Stitch shoulder pads in.
14. Press garment hem into wrong side. Overstitch
garment hem and sleeve hems with lining. Fix lining to garment at waistline
seams. Turn the garment right side out through sleeve hole. Stitch hole edges
together.