5479 JACKET WITH COULISSES

YOU NEED: fabric suitable for raincoats, fusing, eyelets, elastic band, zipper.

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 4 cm for garment hem and 3 cm for sleeve hems.

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces

2. Center back part – 2 pieces

3. Side back part- 2 pieces

4. Side front part – 2 pieces

5. Center front part – 2 pieces

6. Front band – 2 pieces

7. Pocket – 1 piece

8. Pocket facing - 1 piece

9. Right upper sleeve – 1 piece

10. Right lower sleeve – 1 piece

11. Left sleeve – 1 piece

12. Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Lining:

1. Center back part – 2 pieces

2. Side back part – 2 pieces

3. Center front part – 2 pieces

4. Sleeve – 2 pieces

Fusing: stand-up collar, front band, pocket facing.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of stand-up collar, front band, pocket facing.

2. Stitch front relieve seams and press them apart. Stitch back relieve seams and press them apart. Stitch middle back seam and press it apart.

3. Make eyelets into pocket. Neaten pocket facing lower edge. Lay facing on pocket right sides together and overstitch pocket upper edge. Turn pocket facing into wrong side and press pocket upper edge. Pull the cord into eyelets. Fix the cord to pocket side edges. Neaten the pocket along the contour. Pull the cord together and press the pocket along contour according to pattern. Topstitch the pocket on left front part.

4. Make eyelets according to marking close to side edge at front/back parts. Stitch garment shoulder edges. Press shoulder/side edges apart. Stitch outer stand-up into neckline. Stitch the zipper to edge according to notches. Press edge at closure segment into wrong side.

5. Stitch shoulder front band shoulder edges and facing together and press them apart. Stitch inner stand-up into neckline of front band and back neckline facing.

6. Pin front band on front part right sides together and overstitch along edges (on front part side upwards, leaving a hole for a coulisse). Stitch front band lower edges to front part strictly along hem line. Overstitch outer stand-up collar with inner one. Remove pins. Turn corners right side out and press them. Press allowances seam joining stand-up collar apart and fix together close to seams. Make decorative stitch along the stand-up and pull the elastic band into.

7. Stitch side seams and press them apart.

8. Make eyelets into right lower sleeve. Make decorative stitch along marking for cord. Sew upper sleeve to lower sleeve. Pull the elastic cord into eyelets and fix the cord on sleeve edges. Stitch right/left sleeves lower edge and press it apart. Press sleeve hems under.

9. Stitch sleeves into armholes.

10. Stitch liming details and stitch sleeves into armholes. Press lining allowances into wrong side.

11. Stitch the lining to inner edges of front bands and facing.

12. Press garment hem. Overstitch sleeve hems with lining. Pin fabric edges and lining edges together. Make decorative stitch at 1 cm from side seam. Pull elastic band and fix it with horizontal stitch of 2-cm length a bit under the armhole. Fold garment and lining hem into wrong side and topstitch them together. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from edge.