YOU NEED: denim, fusing, 4 buttons, lining
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment
hem and sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Center back part – 2 pieces
2. Side
back part – 2 pieces
3. Inner collar – 1 piece
4. Outer collar – 1 piece
5. Side
front part – 2 pieces
6. Center front part – 2 pieces
7. Front band – 2 pieces
8. Upper off-set welt – 1 piece
9. Patch pocket – 2 pieces
10.
Off-set welt – 2 pieces
11. Sleeve
– 2 pieces
12. Back
neckline facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Front
part – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, off-set welt, center front part, back neckline facing.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
part of front band, off-set welt, center front part, back neckline facing.
2. Mark
front/back darts. Stitch back dart and press them towards back center. Stitch
front darts and slash their depths. Cut pocket entrance. Stitch side front part
to center front part and press the seam apart. Stitch pocket entrance together
and press it apart. Make
decorative stitch at 0.2 cm from darts.
3. Press
upper welt along the center wrong side out. Overstitch welt corners, cut extra
fabric and turn the welt right side out. Press ready welt. Make decorative
stitch along welt contour at 0.2 cm from edge. Mark bust pocket. Stitch the
welt to front part, turn it upwards and topstitch welt’s sides.
4. Lay
outer collar on inner one and overstitch them. Slash extra fabric in corners,
and pres the collar.
5. Press
lower pocket welt along the center, wrong side out. Mark off-set welt on
pocket. Cut fabric valance. Mark pocket joining line on off-set welt, measuring
its width. Lay off-set welt on pocket coinciding marked line. Stitch the welt
to pocket. Lay the valance on pocket right side and press it. Check if welt and
valance are correctly stitched (on wrong side, stitches must be parallel and
distance between them must be equal with ready welt width). Cut pocket
entrance. Make diagonal cuts at 1-1.5 cm from pocket ends. Turn welt and pocket
valance through this hole wrong side out. Fix pocket ends with double reverse
stitch on wrong side along corner basis. Neaten pocket valance and fix pocket
entrance.
Neaten
patch pocket outer contour. Press patch pocket upper edge and topstitch at 0.5
from upper edge. Press pocket edges according to pattern. Mark pocket place on
front part and topstitch reinforcing pocket corners.
6. Lay front band on front part right side together, pin
them together and overstitch along edging (overstitch on front part side up to
the notch pointing collar stitch-in end). Cut edging upper corner seams. Remove
pins. Neaten edge overstitching: at closure segment- on front band, at lapel segment – on front edging.
7. Stitch
middle back seam, neaten it and press it. Stitch back relieves, neaten them and
pres them. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from seams.
8. Mark lining front darts and stitch it. Neaten
lining front shoulder edge. Press darts. Neaten garment back hem. Press garment front/back hem
into wrong side. Stitch the lining to front band outer edge and overstitch
front part lower edge with lining.
9. Stitch side edges together, turning back hem to
back part right side so that front part became inserted into back hem. Neaten
side edges, fold back hem into back part wrong side, and press.
10. Neaten
garment shoulder seams, stitches them together and press apart. Stitch shoulder
edges of front band and facing. Press seams apart and stitch outer collar into
facing neckline, and inner collar sew into front/back neckline. Press collar
joining seam’s allowances apart and fix them close to seams. Fix lining
shoulder edge allowance with garment shoulder edge.
11. Neaten
sleeve edge. Neaten sleeve lower edge and press it into wrong side. Fold sleeve
hem allowance into right side and overstitch slit corners. Fold sleeve hem into
wrong side into wrong side and topstitch it.
12. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from edging, along collar contour and garment
hem. Remove tacking.
13. Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons
on left one.