5482
SHORT-SLEEVED JACKET
YOU NEED: jersey, fusing, separable zipper, decorative cord, braid.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 1 piece
2. Lower front part – 2 pieces
3. Upper front part – 2 pieces
4. Pocket – 2 pieces
5. Pocket facing – 4 pieces
6. Hood – 2 pieces
7. Hood center part – 1 piece
8. Front band – 2 pieces
9. Sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Cuff – 2 pieces
11. Waistband – 1 piece
Fusing: front
band, pocket facing.
ADVICE: to prevent seam from stiffing, sew details with
special (zig zag) stitch. To prevent hem from stiffing neaten it with overlock
and then stitch using double needle. Do the same for all edges which must stay
elastic.
The above is not for industrial manufacturing.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, pocket facing.
2. Sew
hood center to hood and neaten the seam. Make eyelets into hood front edge.
Neaten hood front edge, fold under and topstitch.
3. Lay
facing on pocket and overstitch upper edge. Turn right side out and press
facings.
4. Sew
pocket facing to pocket. Neaten
joining seam.
5. Pin pocket on lower front part.
6. Stitch
lower front part to upper front part and neaten the seam. Remove pins.
7. Sew shoulder edges
and neaten them laying the braid. Sew side edges and neaten them. Press
shoulder/side seams backwards.
Neaten
waistband lower edge. Stitch the waistband.
8. Lay
front parts right sides together, adjust edges and measure edging lengths. Sew
the zipper to edging. Fold edging near zipper and press them down.
9. Neaten
front band outer edge. Lay front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along edging (at front part). Overstitch waistband lower corner.
Turn edgings right side out and press. Topstitch neatened edge along seam
joining waistband.
10. Stitch
the hood into neckline. Neaten joining seam. Fix front bands on shoulder seams
with 1-cm stitch.
11. Sew sleeve edge. Neaten the seam and press it.
12. Sew cuff side edges. Set the cuffs along
the center right side out.
13. Sew cuffs to sleeves lower edges and overstitch
cuff upper edges together with sleeves.
14. Sew sleeves into armholes according to notches.
15. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm along zipper.
Pull the cord into hood eyelets.