5484
DOUBLE-BREAST RAINCOAT WITH YOKE
YOU NEED: fabric suitable for raincoats; fusing; 3
buttons; lining; shoulder pads.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3.5 cm for garment
hem and 3 cm for sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back yoke – 1 piece
2. Center
back part – 2 pieces
3. Side
back part – 2 pieces
4. Inner
collar – 1 piece
5. Outer
collar – 1 piece
6. Flap –
4 pieces
7. Side
front part – 2 pieces
8. Front
yoke – 2 pieces
9. Center
front part – 2 pieces
10. Front
band – 2 pieces
11. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
12. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Back
yoke – 1 piece
2. Center back part – 2 pieces
3. Side back part – 2 pieces
4. Side front part – 2 pieces
5. Front yoke – 2 pieces
6. Center
front part – 2 pieces
7. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Pocket lining – 4 pieces
Fusing: front
band, center front part, inner collar, front yoke, flap.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to front
band, center front part, inner collar, front yoke, flap.
2. Lay
outer collar on inner one right side together and overstitch inner collar with
outer one. Slash collar corners and turn them right side out. Press the collar.
3. Stitch
front/back relieve seams and press them apart. Stitch middle back seam and
press it apart. Stitch the yoke to front part and press joining seam apart.
Stitch the yoke to back part and press joining seam apart.
4. Lay flap details right sides together and overstitch
them along outer contour. Cut corner allowances, turn the flap right side out
and press it.
5. Cut side slit pocket facings. Mark pocket entrance
and reinforce it with reinforcement stripe. Press pocket place. Lay pocket
facing along the center right side out. Mark auxiliary line at pocket facing
parallel to facing bend line, to stitch it. Mark auxiliary line on the flap, to
stitch it to parallel to pocket upper edge, measuring flap width along its
length. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to pocket entrance, to stitch the flap
and pocket facings. Stitch pocket lining to flap. Stitch facings to front part.
Stop stitching close to pocket marking parallel lines. Check if facings are
stitched correctly (on wrong side; stitches must be parallel). Cut pocket
entrance. Make diagonal slits at 1-1.5 cm from pocket ends. Turn facings wrong
side out through this hole, make facing pressed bendings were lay-to-lay. Fix
pocket ends on wrong side with double reverse stitch along corner base. Insert
the flap into pocket and stitch to pocket upper edge. Stitch pocket lower
lining along the seam joining lower facing; cut pocket lining and stitch lining
details together.
6. Pin
front band on front part right sides together and overstitch along marked line
(on front part side up to the notch that marks ends of collar stitching in).
Stitch front band lower edges to front part strictly along marked hem. Cut
edging upper/lower corners seams. Topstitch edging overstitching allowance on:
at closure segment – on front band on lapel segment – on front edging (stitch
at 0.2 cm from the seam). Remove pins. Turn edgings right side out and press.
7. Stitch shoulder/side edges of garment. Press
shoulder/side apart.
8. Stitch
sleeve elbow seam and press it apart. Stitch sleeve front edge and press it
apart. Press sleeve hem.
9. Sew
inner collar into garment neckline. Sew sleeves into armholes according to
notches. Sew shoulder pads in.
10. Sew lining details together and sew sleeves in,
leaving a hole into sleeve right front seam. Press lining allowance. Stitch the
lining to front band inner edges and outer collar. Press allowances of seam
joining the collar apart and fix close to seams.
11. Press garment hem under. Overstitch garment hem
and sleeve hems with lining. Fix lining to garment on waistline seams. Turn the
garment right side out through the hole into sleeve. Stitch a hole into the
sleeve.
12. Make buttonholes into front parts. Sew buttons on.
Sew blind
button.