5458 JACKET WITH YOKE

YOU NEED: denim; fusing; separable zipper; 4 studs.

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Center back part – 2 pieces

2. Side back part – 2 pieces

3. Back yoke – 1 piece

4. Back waistband – 2 pieces

5. Front yoke – 2 pieces

6. Side front part – 2 pieces

7. Center front part – 2 pieces

8. Front waistband – 2 pieces

9. Lower waistband – 2 pieces

10. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces

11. Front band – 2 pieces

12. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

13. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

14. Cuff – 4 pieces

Fusing: front band, stand-up collar, cuff, back waistband, lower waistband.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing on wrong side of front band, stand-up collar, cuff, back waistband, lower waistband.

2. Lay stand-up collar details right sides together and overstitch long outer contour to notch. Slash stand-up collars and turn them right side out. Press stand-up collar.

3. Make pleats into center front part. Stitch pleats into center front part.

4. Stitch front/back relieves. Neaten front/back relieves. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from seam joining front/back relieves.

5. Stitch the yoke to front part and neaten joining seam. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm front seam joining yoke.

6. Stitch middle back seam. Neaten joining seam and press toward right back part. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from joining seam.

7. Stitch back yoke to back part and neaten joining seam. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from seam joining yoke.

8. Stitch the waistband to front part and press joining sea towards waistband. Stitch the waistband to back part and press joining seam toward waistband.

9. Stitch side edges of front/back lower waistband and press them apart. Neaten waistband upper edge.

10. Lay front parts right sides together and make edges equal coinciding yokes; measure edging lengths. Stitch the zipper to edgings. Press edging at closure segment.

11. Neaten front band outer edge. Lay front band on front part right sides together and overstitch along edging (at front part side). Turn edgings right side out and press.

12. Stitch shoulder/side seams. Neaten side/shoulder seams. Press side/shoulder seams backwards.

13. Stitch outer stand-up into neckline, fold inner stand-up open edge under and topstitch along the seam joining outer stand-up. Make decorative stitch along stand-up collar. Fix front band at shoulder seams with 1-cm stitch.

14. Stitch lower waistband middle edge to front band outer hem edge. Press joining seam and turn it towards right side. Overstitch edging lower corner and garment hem with waistband. Turn edging lower corners right side out and slash them. Press the waistband making edging of upper waistband, and topstitch upper neatened edge along seam joining waistband. Make decorative stitch along edging at 0.5 cm from edge.

15. Neaten sleeve elbow edge. Stitch elbow edge to slit notch. Press elbow seam and topstitch slit allowance at 0.5 cm distance on sleeve. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from elbow seam. Stitch sleeve front seam and neaten it.

16. Lay cuff right side in and overstitch along outer contour.

17. Stitch outer cuff to sleeve hem. Fold inner cuff upper edge at 1 cm and topstitch along the seam joining outer cuff. Make decorative stitch along cuff contour.

18. Sew sleeves into armholes according to notches.

19. Make studs into stand-up and into cuffs.

Our advice: if you wish, you can topstitch pleats into center front part with octagonal decorative stitch, as is shown on the picture.