YOU NEED: natural or mixed fabrics,
fusing, 1 zipper, 4 zippers for gussets, 4 studs, 2 clasps.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back
panel – 2 pieces
2. Front
panel – 2 pieces
3. Front
yoke – 2 pieces
4. Front
panel waistband – 4 pieces
5. Back
yoke – 1 piece
6. Back
panel waistband – 2 pieces
7. Gusset
– 4 pieces
8. Flap –
4 pieces
9. Pocket
– 2 pieces
10. Belt
loop – 8 pieces
11. Flap
half-belt – 2 pieces
12. Pocket
half-belt – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
panel waistband, back panel waistband, belt loop, flap.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply
the fusing to wrong side of front panel waistband, back panel waistband, belt
loop, flap.
2. Stitch
waistband to front yoke. Neaten the seam and press it towards waistband. Stitch
the yoke to front panel. Neaten the seams press it towards yoke. Make
decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from joining seam. Neaten front panel. Stitch front
panel middle seam between yoke and zipper mark. Press front panel middle seam
apart, pressing slits. Stitch the zipper to upper slit allowance. Stitch the
zipper to lower slit allowance. Press garment hem into wrong side and topstitch
it.
3. Lay
flap details right sides together and overstitch them. Cut flap corner
allowances and turn them right side our. Press ready flap. Neaten flap’s upper
edge.
4. Neaten
patch pocket upper edge. Press pocket upper edge and topstitch. Neaten patch
pocket outer contour and press allowance according to pattern.
5. Do the
same for pocket/flap half-belts. Fold half-belt front the center, wrong side
out. Overstitch the half-belt along two edges, leaving one short edge for
turning out. Turn the half-belt right side out and press. Make decorative
stitch along half-belt contour at 0.2 cm from edge. Neaten half-belt raw edge.
Set the clasp on half-belt, torn half-belt’s end into wrong side (making a
loop) and topstitch. Mark half-belt places on flap and on pocket. Stitch
half-belt, turn out and topstitch at 0.5 cm from joining seam.
6. Mark
pocket and flap places. Topstitch the pocket on front panel at 0.5 cm from
pocket edge.
7. Neaten
the gusset along the contour. Press the hem under and topstitch it on the
gusset on wrong side. Tack the gusset to front panel with zipper teeth visible.
Make decorative stitch along the zipper at 0.5 cm from sea joining the zipper.
Remove tacking.
8. Stitch
back panel waistband to yoke. Neaten joining seam and press it towards
waistband. Neaten back panel middle/lower edge. Stitch back panel middle seam
up to slit notch. Press back panel middle seam apart, pressing slits. Stitch
the zipper to slit allowances. Stitch the yoke to back panel. Neaten the seam
and press it towards yoke. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from joining seam.
Neaten side edges of back panel. Press the hem into wrong side and topstitch.
Process the gusset in the same way as front gusset.
9. Stitch
side seams to slit notch together. Press side seams apart, pressing slits.
Stitch the zipper to slit allowances. Process the gusset in the seam way as
front gusset.
10.
Stitch lower waistband side edges. Press waistband side seams apart, neaten
waistband lower edge. Fold belt loop details, overstitch them along the contour
leaving upper edge free. Turn belt loop right side out, press it and make
decorative stitch along the contour. Stitch belt loops on garment upper edge.
11. Lay the
waistband on skirt upper edge right sides together and overstitch. Topstitch
overstitching on lower waistband at 0/2 cm from overstitching seam. Fold the
waistband into wrong side and press skirt upper overstitch edge of garment.
Fold lower waistband middle edges under and make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm
from zipper catching edges. Topstitch lower waistband neatened edge on seam
joining upper waistband. Make studs into belt loops and into skirt.