5487 RAINCOAT WITH
FLYING YOKE
YOU NEED: fabric suitable for raincoats,
lining, fusing.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3.5 cm for
garment/sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Center upper back part – 2 pieces
2. Side upper back part – 2 pieces
3. Inner
collar – 1 piece
4. Outer
collar – 1 piece
5. Side
upper front part – 2 pieces
6. Center
upper front part – 2 pieces
7. Front
band – 2 pieces
8. Yoke –
4 pieces
9. Belt –
1 piece
10. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
11. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
12. Center lower back part – 2 pieces
13. Side lower back part – 2 pieces
14. Side
lower front part – 2 pieces
15. Center
lower front part – 2 pieces
16. Big sacking – 2 pieces
17. Small
sacking – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Center
back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Side front part – 2 pieces
4. Center front part – 2 pieces
5. Big sacking – 2 pieces
6. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, center upper front part, center lower front part, vent segment, inner
collar, reinforcement stripe.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, center upper front part, center lower front part, vent
segment, inner collar, reinforcement stripe.
2. Lay
outer collar on inner one right side together and overstitch inner collar with
outer one. Press the collar.
3. Stitch
center upper front part to center lower front part. Press seams apart. Stitch side upper front part to
side lower front part. Press seams apart.
4. Neaten
relieve edges between hem and waistline. Stitch them together and press front
relieves apart.
5. Mark pocket place at front part. Reinforce pocket
entrance with reinforcement stripe. Check lower pocket place on front part. Cut
pocket facings. Press pocket facings along the center right side out. Mark
auxiliary line at pocket facings parallel to facing bend, for stitching it.
Mark auxiliary line parallel to pocket entrance to stitch facing. Stitch
facings to front part. Stop stitching at pocket parallel marking. Check if
facings are stitched correctly (on wrong side, stitches must be parallel). Cut
pocket entrance. Make diagonal notches at 1-1.5 cm from pocket ends. Turn
facings into wrong side through this hole, check facing ends. Reinforce pocket
ends on wrong side with double reverse stitch along corner base. Lay the zipper
under pocket entrance with its teeth visible. Stitch the zipper in and stitch
pocket lining to facing allowance. Stitch pocket linings together and neaten
the seam.
6. Cut
fabric valance. Mark upper false pocket on front part. Reinforce pocket
entrance with reinforcement stripe. Process upper pocket in the same way as
lower one. After the zipper is stitched in, stitch valance to facing
allowances.
7. Neaten front band inner edge. Pin front band and
right side of front part, right sides together, and overstitch along marked
line. (Stitch from front part side up to the notch that points where collar
stitching ends.) Press garment hem into wrong side. Stitch front band hems to
front part strictly along marked hem line. Cut edging upper/lower corners
seams. Turn edgings right side out. Neaten edging overstitching allowance: at
closure segment – on front band, at lapel segment – on front part edging.
Edgings and make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from edging. Remove
tacking.
8. Lay yokes right sides together and overstitch along
outer contour, with shoulder/side/side edges and armhole edges free. Turn the
yoke right side out and press it. Tack the yoke to front part. Topstitch the
yoke on front part.
9. Stitch
side upper back part to side lower back part, stitch center upper back part to
center lower back part. Press joining seams apart.
10. Neaten relieve edges between hem and waistline.
Stitch back relieves together and press them apart.
11. Neaten vent edges. Stitch vent back edge, down to
vent. Press lower vent edge at 1 cm. Press back part middle seam and the vent
towards back center. Topstitch middle back seam diagonally at vent top,
catching vent allowance.
12. Neaten side seams between hem and waistline.
Stitch garment side/shoulder seams together. Press shoulder/side seams apart.
Remove tacking.
13. Stitch
sleeve elbow seam and lower/upper sleeve vent corners. Press elbow seam apart,
make a notch and press the vent.
14. Stitch sleeve front seam and press it apart. Press sleeve hem under.
15. Stitch
inner collar into garment neckline.
16. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
Stitch shoulder pads in.
17. Make studs into sleeve vent, yoke and along edging.
18. Stitch together lining details and sew sleeves in.
Neaten lining seams between hem and waistline. Stitch the lining to inner edges
of front bands and to outer collar. Press joining collar allowances apart and
fix close to seams.
19. Fold lining sleeves under and stitch to garment
sleeves hems, fold extra lining under and press. Turn the garment right side
out. Pin lining side seams to garment side seam and cut neatly along vent
edges, changing at 1 cm towards middle seam. Stopping 1 cm before vent top,
make 1-cm diagonal notches towards both sides. Fold slits in and pin them with
vent edges. With one hand between the garment and the lining, pull pinned edges
one by one right side out. Stitch edges together, fold the lining under. Check
vent corners. At vent upper edge, fold lining corner under and sew it to vent
allowance. Fold garment hem under and topstitch lining so that lining was 1 cm
shorter than garment hem.
20. Press garment hem allowance into
wrong side and sew by hand.
21. Fold the belt along the center wrong side out. Overstitch the belt along three edges leaving small hole to turn the belt right side out. Turn the belt right side out and press it. Make decorative stitch along belt contour at 0.5 cm from edge.