5488
DOUBLE-BREAST RAINCOAT
YOU NEED: fabric suitable for raincoats; fusing; 12
studs; lining; shoulder-pads; clasp; eyelets.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3.5 cm for garment
hem and 3 cm for sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Center back part 1 piece
2. Side
back part 2 pieces
3. Inner
collar 1 piece
4. Outer
collar 1 piece
5. Side
front part 2 pieces
6. Center
front part 2 pieces
7. Yoke
2 pieces
8. Belt
1 piece
9. Front
band 2 pieces
10. Upper
sleeve 2 pieces
11. Lower
sleeve 2 pieces
12. Flap
4 pieces
13. Belt
loop 1 piece
14.
Off-set welt 4 pieces
Lining:
1. Center
back part 1 piece
2. Side back part 2 pieces
3. Side front part 2 pieces
4. Center front part 2 pieces
5. Pocket lining 4 pieces
6. Upper
sleeve 2 pieces
7. Lower sleeve 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, center front part, inner collar, off-set welt, flap.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing on wrong
side of front band, center front part, inner collar, off-set welt, flap.
2. Lay
outer collar on inner one right sides together and overstitch inner collar with
outer one. Slash collar corners and turn them right side out. Press the collar.
3. Lay
off-set welt details right sides together and overstitch them along outer
contour. Cut rounded corners allowance and turn right side out. Press off-set
welt making edging. Stitch pocket lining to welt.
4. Lay
pocket lining onside front part right sides together. Lay pocket lining with
welt on center front part right sides together, according to notches. Stitch pocket lining to pocket entrance allowance.
5. Stitch
front relieves and pocket lining. Make notches at pocket beginning and pocket
end, press relieve allowances apart pressing the pocket. Topstitch welt short
edges towards side front part.
6. Stitch
back relieve edges. Press relieve seams towards back center.
7. Pin front band on front part right sides together and overstitch along marked line (on front part side up to the notch that marks end of collar stitching in). Stitch front band lower edge to front part strictly along hem line. Cut edging upper/lower corners. Topstitch the edging overstitch allowance on: at closure segment on front band, at lapel segment on front part (stitching at 0.2 cm from seam). Turn edgings right side out and press them.
8. Stitch garment shoulder/side edges. Press
shoulder/side seams apart.
9. Fold belt loops along the center wrong side out,
make edges equal and overstitch at 0.5-0.7 cm from edges. Then turn right side
out, placing the seam at fold bend or make edging of 0.1-0.2 m width into wrong
side, and press it. Cut belt loop according to marking. Topstitch belt loop at
side seams at waistline level.
10. Lay flap details right sides together and
overstitch along outer contour. Cut corner seam allowances, turn the flap right
side out and press. Stitch the flap on the yoke according to notches. Lay yoke
details right sides together and overstitch along out contour leaving neckline
edges free. Turn the yoke right side out and press it. Make studs into flap and
front part. Tack the yoke to front/back parts along necklines.
11. Stitch
sleeve elbow edge and press it apart. Stitch sleeve front edge and press it
apart. Press sleeve hem under.
12. Stitch
inner collar into garment neckline. Remove yoke tacking.
13. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
/sew shoulder pads in. Make
studs into cloak back part.
14. Sew lining details and sew sleeves into armholes,
leaving a hole into sleeve right front seam. Press lining allowance. Stitch
lining to front band inner edge and outer collar. Press allowances of seam
joining collar apart and fix close to seams.
15. Press garment hem. Overstitch garment hem and
sleeves hem with lining. Fix the lining to garment at waist-level seams. Turn
the cloak right side out through a hole into sleeve. Stitch sleeve hole edges together.
16. Fold the belt along the center wrong side out.
Overstitch the belt along three edges leaving shall hole for turning out. Turn
the belt right side out and press it. Make decorative stitch along bend contour
at 0.5 cm from edge. Set the clasp on belt. Turn belt end into wrong side
making a loop and topstitch it. Make eyelet into belt. Pull the belt into belt loops.
17. Make studs along edging.