5489 DENIM JACKET WITH SHAPED YOKE

YOU NEED: denim, fusing, separable zipper, 2 studs.

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

CUTTING:

Fusing:

1. Front yoke – 2 pieces

2. Insert – 2 pieces

3. Center front part – 2 pieces

4. Side front part – 2 pieces

5. Front waistband – 2 pieces

6. Back yoke – 1 piece

7. Back insert – 2 pieces

8. Side back part – 2 pieces

9. Center back part – 2 pieces

10. Back waistband – 2 pieces

11. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces

12. Front band – 2 pieces

13. Lower front waistband – 2 pieces

14. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

15. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

16. Sleeve cuff – 4 pieces

Fusing: front band, stand-up collar, cuff, back waistband and lower waistband.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the waistband to wrong side of front band, stand-up, cuff, back waistband and lower waistband.

2. Fold stand-up details along the center, wrong side out, and overstitch along outer contour to notch. Slash corners and turn right side out. Press stand-up collar.

3. Sew side part to center front part. Neaten the seam and pres it towards front center. Sew the insert to front part. Neaten the seam and press it towards insert. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from seam joining side front part and insert.

4. Sew side back part to center back part. Neaten joining seam and press it towards back center. Sew back figure insert to back part. Neaten joining seam and press towards insert. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from seam joining side back part and figure insert.

5. Sew front yoke to front part, neaten joining seam and press it towards front part. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from seam joining yoke.

6. Sew middle back edge. Neaten joining seam and press it towards right back part. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from joining seam.

7. Sew back yoke to back part. Neaten joining seam and press it towards front part. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from seam joining front part.

8. Sew waistband to front part and press joining seam towards waistband. Sew waistband to back part and press joining seam towards waistband.

9. Sew front/back lower waistband side edges and press them apart. Neaten waistband upper edge.

10. Fold front parts right sides together, coincide yokes and measure edgings lengths. Sew the zipper to edging. Fold edge at zipper segment and press it.

11. Neaten front band outer edge. Lay front band on front part right sides together and overstitch along edging line (topstitch at front part side). Turn edgings right side out and press.

12. Sew shoulder/side seams and press them apart. Press shoulder/side seams backwards.

13. Sew outer stand-up collar into neckline, fold inner stand-up open edge and topstitch it along seam joining outer stand-up. Make decorative stitch along stand-up collar. Fix front bands at shoulder seams with 1 cm stitch.

14. Sew lower waistband middle edge to front band outer edge, at bottom. Press joining seam and turn it right side out. Overstitch edging lower corner and garment hem with waistband. Slash edging lower corners and turn them right side out. Press the waistband, making edging of upper waistband, and topstitch upper neatened edge on seam joining waistband. Make decorative stitch along the zipper at 0/5 cm from edging.

15. Neaten sleeve elbow edge. Stitch sleeve elbow seam to notch. Press elbow seam apart and topstitch slit allowance at 0.5 cm on the sleeve. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from elbow seam. Stitch sleeve front seam and neaten it.

16. Fold cuffs right sides right sides together and overstitch along outer contour. Sew outer cuff to sleeve lower edge. Fold inner cuff upper edge at 1 cm and topstitch along seam joining outer cuff. Make decorative stitch along cuff contour. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches. Make studs into stand-up collar.