YOU NEED: artificial/nature leather; fusing; separable;
lining; 4 zippers for pocket.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams. 3,5 cm for garment
hem, 3 cm for lower pocket sleeve hems. 0 cm for upper pocket side/lower edges,
for upper/lower/inner edges.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back belt – 1 piece
2. Right front belt – 1 piece
3. Left front belt – 1 piece
4. Belt
facing – 1 piece
5. Tie – 4
pieces
6. Belt
loop – 1 piece
7. Center
back part – 2 pieces
8. Side
back part – 2 pieces
9. Side
front part – 2 pieces
10. Center
front part – 2 pieces
11. Upper
pocket – 2 pieces
12. Lower
pocket – 2 pieces
13. Front
band – 2 pieces
14. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
15. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
16. Cuff –
4 pieces
17. Back
neckline facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Center back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Front part – 2 pieces
4. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, back neckline facing, reinforcement stripe, belt facing.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, back neckline facing, reinforcement stripe, belt facing.
2. Stitch
front darts. Slash dart depth and press darts apart. Make decorative stitch
along darts. Stitch front relieve edges and press them. Make decorative
stitches along relieves.
3. Stitch
back relieve edges and press them. Make decorative stitches along relieves.
Stitch middle back edge and press it. Make decorative stitch along middle seam.
4. Mark
upper pocket on front part. Press allowance of pocket upper edge into wrong
side and make a double stitch along it. Cut the pocket along marked line. Lay the
zipper under slit edges with zipper’s teeth visible, them topstitch. Topstitch
upper pocket on front part with a double stitch.
5. Mark
lower pocket on front part. Reinforce pocket entrance with reinforcement
stripe. Check pocket place and pocket entrance line. Cut pocket entrance. Make
diagonal slits at 1-1.5 cm from pocket ends. Turn pocket allowance wrong side
out through this hole. Check pocket end on wrong side. Lay the zipper under
pocket entrance edge with its teeth visible. Sew the zipper in. Topstitch lower
pocket on front part along upper/inner/lower edges.
6. Fold the tie along the center right side out, fold
long edges’ allowances under and make decorative stitch along tie contour at
0.2 cm from edge. Do the same for belt loop stripe. Cut belt loops according to
marks.
7. Stitch belt details together inserting tie
according to marking. Lay belt facing on right front belt right sides together
and overstitch them. Cut corner allowances and turn the belt right side out.
Press upper allowance into wrong side and make decorative double stitch.
Topstitch belt loops on the belt according to marks.
8. Lay
front parts right sides together and adjust edges measuring edging lengths.
Stitch the zipper to edging. Press edging under at closure segment.
9. Stitch shoulder/side edges and press them apart.
10. Stitch shoulder edges of front band and facing and
press them apart. Lay front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along edging and back neckline (on front part side). Overstitch front part lower corner, cut corner
allowances, slash at curve segments of seam. Turn front bands right side out
and press seams. Make decorative stitch along edging and neckline at 0.5 cm
from edge.
11. Lay
the belt on the garment according to marks. Topstitch the belt along
side/middle seams and along edging decorative stitch.
12. Stitch
sleeve front edge and press it apart. Stitch cuffs to sleeves, press allowances
towards sleeves. Stitch elbow edges and press them apart. Press sleeve hems
under. If you wish, you can make decorative stitches at equal distance on
cuffs.
13. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
14. Sew lining details together and sew sleeves in,
leaving a hole into sleeve right front seam. Press lining allowances under. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front band and back neckline facing.
15. Press garment hem under. Overstitch sleeve hems
and garment hem with lining. Fix the lining to garment at waist seams. Turn the
garment right side out through the hole in sleeve. Stitch sleeve hole edges
together.