5491 JACKET WITH DECORATIVE STITCHING

YOU NEED: denim, fusing, separable zipper, 2 buttons, lining.

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Center back part – 2 pieces

2. Side back part – 2 pieces

3. Back yoke – 1 piece

4. Back waistband – 2 pieces

5. Front yoke – 2 pieces

6. Side front part – 2 pieces

7. Center front part – 2 pieces

8. Front waistband – 2 pieces

9. Lower waistband – 2 pieces

10. Outer collar – 1 piece

11. Inner collar – 1 piece

12. Patch pocket – 2 pieces

13. Front band – 2 pieces

14. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

15. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

16. Cuff – 4 pieces

17. Off-set welt – 2 pieces

Lining:

1. Pocket lining – 2 pieces

Fusing: front band, collar, off-set welt, cuffs, back waistband, lower waistband.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front band, collar, off-set welt, cuffs, back waistband, lower waistband.

2. Lay outer collar on inner one and overstitch along outer contour. Slash collar corners and turn them side out. Press the collar.

3. Sew front/back relieves. Neaten back/front relieve seams. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from seams joining front/back relieves.

4. Fold off-set welt along the center, right side out, and press. Mark welt place on pocket. On the welt, mark the line of sewing to pocket, measuring the width. Topstitch the welt on pocket coinciding marked lines. Lay pocket lining on pocket right side to marked upper line, and stitch. Check whether welt is stitched to pocket correctly (stitches must be parallel to each other and distance between them equal to ready welt wide). Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal cut at 1-1.5 cm from pocket end. Turn the welt and pocket lining wrong side out through this hole. Neaten the seam joining off-set welt. Fix pocket ends on wrong side with double reverse stitch along corner base. Make decorative stitch at 0.2 cm along welt upper edge and sides. Neaten patch pocket outer contour together with pocket lining. Press pocket sides according to pattern. Mark pocket place on front art and topstitch it.

5. Sew the yoke to front part and neaten joining seam. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from yoke joining seam.

6. Sew middle back edge. Neaten joining seam and press it towards right back part. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from joining seam. Sew back yoke and neaten joining seam. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from seam joining yoke.

7. Sew waistband to front part and press joining seam towards waistband. Sew waistband to back part and press joining seam towards waistband.

8. Sew front part lower waistband’s side edges and back part lower waistband’s side edges together. Neaten waistband upper edge.

9. Lay front parts right sides together and coincide yokes, and measure edgings lengths. Sew the zipper to edging. Fold edging at closure segment under and press it.

10. Neaten front band outer edge. Lay front band on front part right sides together and overstitch along edging (from front part side). Turn edgings to left side and press.

11. Sew shoulder seams and neaten them. Press shoulder seams backwards.

12. Neaten sleeve elbow edge. Sew sleeve elbow seam up to notch. Press sleeve elbow seam apart and topstitch slit allowance at 0.5 cm on sleeve. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from elbow seam.

13. Sew sleeves into open armholes according to notches. Sew jacket side edge to sleeve lower edge with one stitch, then neaten and press backward.

14. Sew inner collar into neckline, fold inner collar open edge and topstitch along seam joining stand-up collar. Make decorative stitch along the collar. Fix front bands at shoulder seams with 1 cm stitch.

15. Sew lower waistband middle edge to front band outer edge, at bottom. Press joining seam and fold it to right side. Overstitch front band lower corner and garment hem with waistband. Turn edging lower corners right side out and slash them. Press the waistband, making edging of upper waistband and topstitch upper neatened edge on seam joining the waistband. Make decorative stitch along edging at 0.5 cm from edging.

16. Fold a cuff wrong side out and overstitch it along outer contour, with upper edge unstitched.

17. Sew upper cuffs to sleeve lower edges. Fold lower cuffs upper edges at 1 cm under and topstitch on seam joining upper cuff. Make decorative stitch along cuff contour.

18. Mark buttonholes into cuffs and neaten them.