YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric,
fusing, 3 zippers, 5 buttons, lining.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Front part – 2
pieces
2. Side pocket – 2
pieces
3. Side flap – 4
pieces
4. Pocket side – 2
pieces
5. Back pocket
facing – 2 pieces
6. Back big
sacking – 1 piece
7. Back part – 2
pieces
8. Small sacking –
2 pieces
9. Big sacking – 2
pieces
10. Button catch –
1 piece
11. Cuff – 2
pieces
12. Waistband – 1
piece
Lining:
1. Back big
sacking – 1 piece
Fusing: waistband, flap, button catch.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the
fusing to wrong side of waistband, flap, button catch.
2. Mark pocket place on back part. Reinforce pocket
entrance with reinforcement stripe. Check back pocket place. Press facings
along the center right side out. Mark auxiliary line at pocket facings parallel
to facing bend, to stitch it to. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to pocket
entrance to stitch pocket facings. Stitch facings to back part. Stop stitching
at pocket marking parallel lines. Check if facings are correctly stitches (on
wrong side, stitches must be parallel). Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal
slits at 1-1.5 cm from pocket ends. Turn facings wrong side out through this
hole, check facing ends. Fix pocket ends on wrong side with double reverse
stitches along corner base, Stitch pocket lining to facing allowance. Stitch
pocket lining together and neaten it.
3. Mark side slit pocket on front part. Reinforce pocket
entrance with reinforcement stripe. Check pocket marking and pocket entrance
line. Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal slits at 1-1.5 cm from pocket ends.
Turn pocket allowances into wrong side through this hole, check edges. Check
pocket end on wrong side. Lay the zipper under pocket entrance with its teeth
visible. Sew the zipper in and stitch pocket lining to zipper allowance. Stitch
pocket lining and neaten the seam.
4. Neaten
back/front part side edges. Stitch together and press seams apart.
5. Fold
flap details right sides together and overstitch along outer contour. Turn the
flap through upper open edge. Check seams and make decorative stitch at 0.2 cm
from flap edge. Mark flap place on the garment. Neaten flap upper edge, stitch
the flap to garment, turn it out and topstitch at 0.5 cm distance.
6. Mark
patch side pocket place on the garment. Neaten side edge of pocket side. Stitch
pocket side to pocket side/lower edges and neaten seams. Neaten pocket upper
edge, fold it under and topstitch. Topstitch the pocket along marking folding
facing edge under.
7. Neaten
following edges: inside leg edge, middle front edge and flying front edge, as
well as middle back edge.
8. Stitch inside
leg seams and press them apart.
9. Stitch front
edge to middle edge to closure notch. Make another stitch along crotch seam
close to the seam joining front seam and middle seam.
10. Press
closure one-piece facings into wrong side. Stitch the zipper under closure
allowance left edge) along the edge. Stitch zipper free braid to right edge to
one-piece facing. Fold button catch along the center and overstitch short lower
edge. Neaten button catch long edge. Topstitch closure one-piece facing on left
part button catch. Topstitch slit right edge catching facings.
11. Fold belt loop along the center its wrong side
out, make edges equal and overstitch at 0.5-0.7 cm from edges. Then turn it
right side out, placing the seam on bending or making the edging of 0.1-0.2 cm
into wrong side, and press t.
12. Neaten waistband lower edge. Press the waistband
along the center right side out.
13. Cut belt loops
according to size and stitch them to upper waistband’s lower edge. Stitch the
waistband to upper edge and overstitch waistband corners. Topstitch neatened
edge on the seam joining waistband. Topstitch belt loop free ends on waistband
upper edge.
14. Press
cuffs along the center wrong side in. Stitch unfolded cuff side edges and press
apart. Press unfolded cuff side edges and press them apart. Press cuff hem.
Stitch cuffs to leg lower edges. Neaten the seam and press it under.
15. Make a
buttonhole into waistband right edge and sew the button on left one. Make
buttonholes into patch side pocket flap. Sew buttons on patch side pocket.