5494 DOUBLE-BREAST JACKET

YOU NEED: fabric suitable for raincoats, fusing, 7 buttons, lining.

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3.5 cm for garment hem and 3 cm for sleeve hems.

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Back neckline facing – 1 piece

2. Back yoke – 1 piece

3. Center back part – 2 pieces

4. Side back part – 2 pieces

5. Inner collar – 1 piece

6. Outer collar – 1 piece

7. Side front part – 2 pieces

8. Front yoke – 2 pieces

9. Center front part – 2 pieces

10. Front band – 2 pieces

11. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

12. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

13. Sleeve insert – 2 pieces

14. Cuff – 2 pieces

Lining:

1. Back yoke – 1 piece

2. Center back part – 2 pieces

3. Side back part – 2 pieces

4. Side front part – 2 pieces

5. Center front part – 2 pieces

6. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

7. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

Fusing: front band, center front part, inner collar, front yoke.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front band, center front part, inner collar, front yoke.

2. Lay outer collar on inner collar, right sides together; overstitch inner collar with outer one. Slash collar corners and turn the, right side out. Press the collar.

3. Stitch front/back relieve seams and press them apart. Stitch back middle seam and press it apart. Mark front yoke darts and stitch them. Press darts towards front yoke center. Sew the yoke to front part and press joining seam apart. Sew back yoke to back part and press joining seam apart.

4. Lay front band on front part, right sides together, pin them together and overstitch along marked line (from front part up to the notch marking end of stitching collar in). Sew front band hems to front part strictly along hem line. Cut corners of edging upper/lower corners. Topstitch allowance of seam overstitching edging: at closure segment – on front band, at lapel segment – on lapel (topstitch at 0.2 cm from seam). Remove pins. Turn edgings right side out, press seams.

5. Stitch shoulder/side edges of garment. Press shoulder/side seams apart.

6. Sew sleeve elbow edge and press it apart. Sew sleeve insert to the sleeve. Press joining seam apart. Sew cuffs to lower sleeves. Press joining seams apart. Sew sleeve front edge and press apart. Press sleeve hems down.

7. Sew inner collar into garment neckline. Sew sleeves into armholes according to notches.

8. Sew lining details together and sew lining sleeves into armholes leaving a hole into sleeve right front seam. Press lining allowance. Sew lining to front band inner edges and to outer collar. Press allowances of joining collar apart and fix them near seams.

9. Mark garment hem line and press it under. Overstitch sleeve hems and garment hem with lining. Fix lining to garment at waist seams. Turn the garment right side out through sleeve hole. Stitch the hole.

10. Make buttonholes into front part. Sew buttons. Sew blind button.