5499 WAISTCOAT

YOU NEED: moreen or viscose; fusing; lining; separable zipper.

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Center back part – 1 piece

2. Pocket – 2 pieces

3. Center front part – 2 pieces

4. Collar – 2 pieces

5. Front band – 2 pieces

6. Lower back facing – 1 piece

7. Lower front facing – 2 pieces

Lining:

1. Center back part – 1 piece

2. Center front part – 2 pieces

Fusing: front band, outer collar.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to front band, outer collar.

2. Stitch front darts and press them downwards. Stitch back darts and press them towards back center.

3. Neaten pocket outer contour and press it according to pattern. Topstitch upper edge on the pocket, mark pocket place and topstitch the pocket along the contour at 0.2 cm from pocket edge.

4. Stitch side/shoulder edges and press them apart.

5. Lay collar details together and overstitch the collar along the contour. Turn collar corners right side out. Press the collar.

6. Stitch the zipper under edging. Fold edging under and press it (at closure segment).

7. Stitch side edges of front/back hem facings. Lay hem facings on the garment right sides together and overstitch the hem. Topstitch hem overstitching allowance on facings at 0.2 cm from seam; stop stitching 5 cm before edging.

8. Pin front band on front part right sides together. Stitch front band lower edge to front part facing’s upper edge; stop stitching 1 cm before front band edge. Overstitch edgings with front bands along edging lines (at front part side). Cut extra fabric of edging’s seams lower corners. Turn edgings right side out and press seams.

9. Stitch the collar into waistcoat neckline. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm along edging line.

10. Stitch lining details leaving a hole into right side seam. Press the lining.

11. Stitch the lining to front bands and hem facing and outer collar coinciding with garment seams. Press allowance of seam joining the collar apart and fix them close to seams. Stitch lining side seam.