YOU NEED: fabric suitable for raincoat, fusing, lining,
8 buttons, separable zipper, decorative cord, 2 tips for cord.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE
IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams; 3,5 cm for hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Placket
for zipper – 2 pieces
4. Back
neckline facing – 1 piece
5. Front
band – 2 pieces
6. Hood –
4 pieces
7. Cuff –
2 pieces
8. Sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Patch
pocket – 2 pieces
10. Flap –
4 pieces
11.
Off-set welt – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Bust
pocket lining – 4 pieces
2. Back part – 2 pieces
3. Front part – 2 pieces
4. Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, cuff, back neckline facing, placket, reinforcement stripe.
Reinforcement is a
stripe of fusing of 4 cm width that exceeds pocket entrance by 2 or 3 cm.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, cuff, back neckline facing, placket, reinforcement stripe.
2. Stitch
front dart, cut it apart and pres apart. Stitch back dart and press it towards
back center.
3. Cut fabric stripe of 3 cm width for closure loops. Fold the stripe
along the center and make a stitch at 0.5 cm from bending; overstitch one of
ends. Turn the stripe right side out and press it. Cut closure loops. Loop
length is button diameter*2+4 cm.
4. Mark closure loops plates on the placket. Fold
every loop half to create a triangle on bending. Fix triangles along the base.
5. Lay placket details right sides together and
overstitch two short edges and one of long edges inserting loops. Slash placket
corners, turn the placket and press it.
6. Mark
the place of off-set welt. Press the welt along the center wrong side out. Overstitch
welt corners, cut extra fabric in corners and turn the welt right side out.
Press ready welt.
7. Apply
the reinforcement stripe to wrong side of slit pocket entrance (front part).
Mark off-set welt to stitch it to the garment, measuring the width. Lay the
welt wrong side on one part of pocket lining’s right side, with welt’s ready
edge downwards, coinciding edges and leaving lining edges at similar width. Lay
off-set welt on front part and coincide markings. Stitch the welt to front part
(welt is between front part and pocket lining). Fold seam that joins welt to
lining out towards welt. Lining’s another part: lay it on front part right
sides together, lay-to-lay with seam joining welt. Stitch it at 0.8-1 cm from
seam joining the welt. Check if welt and pocket lining are stitched correctly
(stitches on wrong side must be parallel). Remove tacking. Cut pocket entrance.
Make diagonal notches at 1-1.5 cm from pocket ends. Turn the welt and pocket
lining wrong side out through this hole. Fix pocket ends with double reverse
stitches on wrong side along corners’ base. Stitch pocket lining and neaten it.
Tack off-set welt to front part and press it. Topstitch welt ends. Remove
tacking.
8. Lay flap details
right sides together and overstitch them. Cut allowances into corners and turn
them right side out. Make decorative stitch along flap outer corner at 0.5 cm
from edge and neaten flap upper edge.
9. Stitch
pleats into pocket. Neaten pocket upper edges and press it according to
pattern. Topstitch upper edge on the pocket; topstitch the pocket along the
contour at 0.2 cm from pocket edge. Tops the flap according to marks. Fold the
flap towards right side and topstitch it at 0.5 cm from the seam.
10. Mark placket place. Stitch the placket to right
front part, fold it out and topstitch on front part.
11. Stitch
back middle seam and press it apart. Stitch garment shoulder edges and press
them apart.
12. Stitch
sleeves into open armholes. Stitch sleeve edge and garment side edge with one
seam. Press sleeve side seams apart.
13. Make
buttonholes into the hood. Stitch hood middle seam and press it apart. Stitch
the hood into the neckline. Stitch the zipper to hood edges and edgings. Press
edgings at closure segment into wrong side.
14. Lay
hood details together and overstitch them along the contour excluding neckline
lower edge and hood edges. Press the hood.
15. Stitch
inner hood to front band, stop stitching 4 cm before the end.
16. Lay front band on front part right sides together.
Overstitch hood edges and edging along marked line (at front part side). Stitch
front bands’ lower edges to center front part strictly along marked hem line.
Cut edging upper/lower corners. Turn edgings right side out. Make decorative
stitch at 0.5 cm from the edge.
17. Mark decorative stitch along hood edge. Pull the
cord into the hood. Make decorative stitch along hood edge. Set
pins on cord’s ends.
18. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing and front band. Stitch inner hood into
back facing neckline and front band.
19. Press
the cuff along the center. Turn the cuff and stitch side edge. Press side edge
of the cuff apart. Press the cuff along the center along side seam.
20. Stitch
cuffs to sleeves’ lower edges.
21. Stitch lining details leaving a hole into sleeve
right front seam, and stitch sleeves in. Press lining seams. Stitch lining to
front bands’ inner edges and back neckline facing. Press hood joining seams’
allowances apart and fix close to seams. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from
edging.
22. Fold lining sleeves under and stitch them to
cuffs. Turn the cloak right side out through the hole in the sleeve. Stitch
sleeve hole.
23. Sew buttons.