YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric, fusing, lining, 3
buttons, shoulder pads.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR,
THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Upper front part – 2 pieces
2. Inner collar – 1 piece
3. Outer
collar – 1 piece
4. Middle
front part – 2 pieces
5. Side
front part – 2 pieces
6. Back
neckline facing – 1 piece
7. Side back
part – 2 pieces
8. Middle back part – 2 pieces
9. Front
band – 2 pieces
10. Upper
sleeve_1 – 2 pieces
11. Upper
sleeve_2 – 2 pieces
12. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Upper
front part – 2 pieces
2. Middle front part – 2 pieces
3. Side front part – 2 pieces
4. Middle back part – 2 pieces
5. Side back part – 2 pieces
6. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front band, inner collar, back neckline
facing.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to
wrong side of front band, inner collar, back neckline facing.
2. Lay
collar details together and overstitch them along the contour. Turn collar
corners right side out. Press
the collar.
3. Make a
pleat along upper front part’s lower edge at dart dividing level.
4. Stitch
side front part to middle front part. Press joining seam apart. Stitch front
lower part to upper part. Press joining seam apart.
5. Stitch
back shoulder dart, press the darts towards back center. Stitch middle back
edge and press apart. Stitch side back part to center back part. Press joining seam apart.
6. Stitch
shoulder/side seams of the garment and press them apart.
7. Make a
pleat along upper sleeve_1’s lower edge; the pleat must be equal to length of
upper sleeve_2’s upper edge. Stitch details of upper sleeves 1 and 2. Stitch
sleeve front seam and press it apart. Press sleeve hems under.
8. Pin
front band on front part right sides together and overstitch them along edging
(at front part side up to the notch determining edge of collar stitching in).
Stitch front bands’ lower edges to center front part along marked hem line. Cut
edging upper/lower corners. Topstitch edging overstitching as follows:
topstitch allowance on front band at closure segment and on front edging at
lapels (stitching goes 2 cm from the seam). Turn the edgings right side our and
press it. Stitch shoulder edges of back neckline facing and front band
together, press seams apart.
9. Stitch
inner collar into garment neckline. Stitch outer collar to back neckline facing
and front band.
10. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
11. Stitch lining details leaving a hole into sleeve
right front seam, and stitch sleeves in. Press lining seams. Stitch lining to
front bands’ inner edges and outer collar’s neckline edge. Press collar joining
seams’ allowances apart and fix close to seams.
12. Stitch lining sleeves to fabric sleeve hems and
garment’s hem. Fix the lining to jacket at waist level at relieve seam s with 1
cm stitch. Turn the jacket right side out through the hole in the sleeve. Stitch
sleeve hole.
13. Make buttonholes, sew buttons.