YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric suitable for costumes;
fusing; lining; 4 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR,
THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for
garment/sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Center back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Inner
collar – 1 piece
4. Outer
collar – 1 piece
5. Side
front part – 2 pieces
6. Center
front part – 2 pieces
7. Front band – 2 pieces
8. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
9. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
11. Lower
sleeve facing – 2 pieces
12. Upper
sleeve facing – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Center
back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Side front part – 2 pieces
4. Center front part – 2 pieces
5. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Pocket lining – 4 pieces
Fusing: front
band, inner collar, upper sleeve facing, lower sleeve facing.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, inner collar, upper sleeve facing, lower sleeve facing.
2. Lay
collar details together and overstitch them along the contour. Turn collar
corners right side out. Press
the collar.
3. Stitch
side front part to center front part. Press joining seam apart.
4. Stitch
middle back edge and press it apart. Stitch side back part to center back part.
Pres joining seam apart.
5. Press
the off-set welt along the center wrong side out. Overstitch welt corners, cut
extra fabric on corners ad turn the welt right side out. Press ready welt.
6. Mark
off-set welt to stitch it to the garment, measuring the width. Lay the welt
wrong side on one part of pocket lining’s right side, with welt’s ready edge
downwards, coinciding edges and leaving lining edges at similar width. Lay
off-set welt on front part and coincide markings. Stitch the welt to front part
(welt is between front part and pocket lining). Fold seam that joins welt to
lining out towards welt. Lining’s another part: lay it on front part right
sides together, lay-to-lay with seam joining welt. Stitch it at 0.8-1 cm from
seam joining the welt. Check if welt and pocket lining are stitched correctly
(stitches on wrong side must be parallel). Remove tacking. Cut pocket entrance.
Make diagonal notches at 1-1.5 cm from pocket ends. Turn the welt and pocket
lining wrong side out through this hole. Fix pocket ends with double reverse
stitches on wrong side along corners’ base. Stitch pocket lining and neaten it.
Tack off-set welt to front part and press it. Topstitch welt ends. Remove
tacking.
7. Stitch
garment shoulder/side seams.
8. Stitch
elbow seam and press it apart. Stitch sleeve front seam and press it apart.
9. Stitch
side edges of sleeve facings and press them apart. Overstitch sleeve hems with
facings. Press overstitching seam and make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from
edge.
10. Pin
front band on front part right sides together and overstitch them along edging
(at front part side up to the notch determining edge of collar stitching in).
Stitch front bands’ lower edges to center front part along marked hem line. Cut
edging upper/lower corners. Turn the edging right side our and press it.
11. Stitch
inner collar into neckline.
12. Stitch sleeves into armholes according notches.
13. Stitch lining details leaving a hole into sleeve
right front seam, stitch sleeves in. Press lining seams. Stitch lining to front
bands’ inner edges and outer collar’s neckline edge. Press collar joining
seams’ allowances apart and fix close to seams. Make decorative stitch at
0.5 cm from edging.
14. Fold lining sleeves under and stitch to sleeves’
facings. Fix the lining to jacket at waist level at relieve seams with 1 cm
stitch. Turn the jacket right side out through the hole in the sleeve. Stitch sleeve hole.
15. Make buttonholes, sew buttons.