YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric, fusing, zipper of 25 cm
length, piping.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150
cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Upper front part – 1 piece
2. Front facing – 1 piece
3. Lower front part – 2 pieces
4. Front yoke – 2 pieces
5. Center front part – 1 piece
6. Side front gusset – 2 pieces
7. Upper back part – 2 pieces
8. Lower back part – 2 pieces
9. Back yoke – 2 pieces
10. Side back gusset – 2 pieces
11. Center back gusset – 2 pieces
12. Front drape – 2 pieces
13. Back drape – 2 pieces
14. Wing –
2 pieces
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Make pleats into upper front part. Fold lower edge of front facing and press it. Topstitch facing pressed
edge on upper front part at 0.2 cm from bending.
2. Lay the
drape on lower front/back parts adjusting edges. Fix pleats into draping (by
hand).
3. Stitch
front yoke to side gusset. Neaten joining seam and press it towards the gusset.
Stitch back yoke to side gusset. Neaten joining seam and press it towards the
gusset.
4. Stitch
side back gusset to center gusset. Neaten joining seam and press it towards
center gusset.
5. Stitch
lower back part with drape to back panel; neaten joining seam and press
backwards.
6. Stitch
lower front part to front yoke upper edge; neaten joining seam and press
towards the yoke.
7. Stitch
front relieve seam, neaten joining seam and press it towards front center.
8. Stitch
upper front part to upper edge of gathered lower front part. Neaten joining
seam and press it towards drape.
9. Stitch
upper back part to lower back part. Neaten joining seam and press towards
drape.
10. Stitch
side edges and neaten them. Press side seams backwards.
11. Make a
stitch with easy loops along front décolleté at 0.5 cm from edge,
then gather as whished. Press the piping along the
center. Overstitch front/back décolleté edges as well as front
armholes making straps of piping.
12. Neaten
wing’s outer edge, press into wrong side and topstitch at 0.5 cm from edge.
Press piping along the center and overstitch wing inner edge making straps of
piping.
13. Neaten
middle back edge. Stitch middle back seam up to closure notch. Press middle seam
apart pressing slits. Stitch
the zipper in.
14. Put
the dress on, adjust straps’ length and sew back ends to back part. Adjust wings and sew them.
15. Neaten
dress hem, fold it under and topstitch at 0.5 cm form hem.