YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric; fusing; lining;
shoulder pads.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment/sleeve hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Front yoke – 2 pieces
4. Upper font part – 2 pieces
5. Middle front part – 2 pieces
6. Lower front part – 2 pieces
7. Front band – 2 pieces
8. Waistband_1 – 2 pieces
9. Waistband_2 – 2 pieces
10. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
11. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
12. Inner collar – 1 piece
13. Outer collar – 1 piece
14. Back
neckline facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Back
part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Front yoke – 2 pieces
4. Lower front part – 2 pieces
5. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, front yoke, upper/middle/lower front parts, jacket/sleeve hems, back
neckline facing, outer collar.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, front yoke, upper/middle/lower front parts, jacket/sleeve
hems, back neckline facing, outer collar.
2. Stitch
back darts and press them towards the center.
3. Lay
outer collar on the inner one, them overstitch. Press the collar.
4. Stitch
upper front part to front yoke, press joining seam apart. Stitch front middle
part to upper front part, press joining seam apart. Stitch lower front part to
middle front part, press joining seam apart.
5. Lay
waistband_1 details right sides together and overstitch along three edges
excluding side edge. Turn the waistband right side out and press it. Process
waistband_2 in the same way. Stitch the waistband to edging (stitch longer
waistband to left edging, stitch shorter waistband to right one.)
6. Pin front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along edging. (Overstitch front part upward the notch determining
end of stitching the collar in). Stitch lower edges f front bands to front part
along marked hem line. Cut seams of upper/lower corners of edging. Topstitch
edging’s overstitching allowance on front band at closure and at front edging
at lapels. (Topstitch at 0.2 cm from seam.) Turn edgings right side out.
7. Stitch
middle back seam and press it apart. Stitch relieve back seams and press them
apart. Stitch shoulder/side seams leaving waist-level hole into right side seam
for the waistband, then press seams apart.
8. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front band, then press seams apart. Stitch
inner collar into jacket neckline, stitch outer collar into edges of back
neckline facing/front band.
9. Stitch
elbow seams and press it apart. Press sleeve hems into wrong side. Stitch
sleeve front seams and press them apart.
10. Stitch sleeve into armholes according to notches.
Sew shoulder pads.
11. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeve
in, leaving a hole into right front seam of a sleeve and waistband hole into
left side seam.
12. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Press allowances
of seam joining the collar apart and fix them close to seams. Fix the lining to
the fabric at waistband-hole level.
13.
Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out trough
sleeve hole. Stitch hole’s edges together.