YOU NEED: denim; fusing; 1 button; lining; shoulder
pads.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment/sleeve hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Side front part – 2 pieces
2. Middle front part – 2 pieces
3. Center front part – 2 pieces
4. Center front part_2 – 2 pieces
5. Front insert – 2 pieces
6. Front yoke – 2 pieces
7. Back part – 2 pieces
8. Side back part – 2 pieces
9. Inner collar – 1 piece
10. Outer collar – 1 piece
11. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
12. Front
band – 2 pieces
13. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
14. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Side
front part – 2 pieces
2. Middle front part – 2 pieces
3. Center front part – 2 pieces
4. Center front part_2 – 2 pieces
5. Front insert – 2 pieces
6. Front yoke – 2 pieces
7. Back
part – 2 pieces
8. Side
back part – 2 pieces
9. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, front yoke, center front part, jacket/sleeve hems, back neckline facing,
outer collar.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, front yoke, center front part, jacket/sleeve hems, back
neckline facing, outer collar.
2. Stitch
back darts and press them towards the center.
3. Lay
outer collar in inner one and overstitch them. Press the collar.
4. Stitch
side front part to middle front part. Press joining seam apart and make
decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from joining seam. Stitch the insert to center/side
front parts. Press joining seam apart and make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from
joining seam.
5. Stitch
center front part_1 and center front part_2 together. Press front part’s seam
and make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from seam.
6. Stitch
middle front part to center front part. Press joining seam and make decorative
stitch at 0.5 cm from seam.
7. Stitch
front yoke to lower front part. Press joining seam apart and make decorative
stitch at 0.5 cm from joining seam.
8. Pin front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along edging. (Overstitch front part upward the notch determining
end of stitching the collar in). Stitch lower edges of front bands to front
part along marked hem line. Cut seams of upper/lower corners of edging.
Topstitch edging’s overstitching allowance on front band at closure and at
front edging at lapels. (Topstitch at 0.2 cm from seam.) Turn edgings right
side out.
9. Stitch
middle back seam and press it apart. Stitch relieve back seams and press them
apart. Stitch shoulder/side seams, then press seams apart
10. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front band, then press seams apart.
Stitch inner collar into jacket neckline, stitch outer collar into edges of
back neckline facing/front band.
11. Stitch
elbow seams and press it apart. Press sleeve hems into wrong side. Stitch
sleeve front seams and press them apart.
12. Stitch sleeve into armholes according to notches.
Sew shoulder pads.
13. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeve
in, leaving a hole into right front seam of a sleeve and waistband hole into
left side seam.
14. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Press allowances
of seam joining the collar apart and fix them close to seams.
15.
Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out trough
sleeve hole. Stitch hole’s edges together.
16. Make
a buttonhole into right front edging, sew the button on left one.