YOU NEED: wool/semi wool; fusing; 3 buttons; lining;
shoulder pads.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment/sleeve hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Inner collar – 1 piece
2. Outer collar – 1 piece
3. Front part – 2 pieces
4. Upper flap – 2 pieces
5. Front band – 2 pieces
6. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
7. Side back part – 2 pieces
8. Back part – 2 pieces
9. Patch pocket – 2 pieces
10. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
11. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
12. Lower
flap – 4 pieces
Lining:
1. Front
part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Back part – 2 pieces
4. Pocket – 2 pieces
5. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, upper/lower flaps, reinforcement stripe, front part, jacket/sleeve hems,
back neckline facing, outer collar.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, upper/lower flaps, front part, jacket/sleeve hems, back
neckline facing, outer collar.
2. Stitch
back darts and press them towards the center. Stitch front darts and slash
darts’ depths.
3. Lay
upper flaps right sides together, then overstitch. Cut allowances of flap
corners, then turn right side out. Press seams. Neaten
flap’s free edge. Mark upper pocket. Stitch the flap to
front part, fold it downwards and topstitch.
4. Lay
lower flaps right sides together and overstitch them. Cut allowances of flap
corners and turn right side out. Press the flap, and neaten free edge of flap.
5. Lay
outer collar on inner one and overstitch it. Cut seams at corners, turn right
side out, then press the collar.
6. Mark
pocket place. Stitch pocket lining to pocket’s upper edge and stitch
pocket/lining edges together along the contour leaving a hole of 5 cm length
into side seam (to turn the pocket right side out.) Cut allowances of rounded
corners and turn the pocket right side out. Press the pocket. Topstitch the
pocket in accordance with marking. Mark flap place. Stitch the flap on marking.
Fold the flap downwards and topstitch at 0.5 cm from joining seam.
7. Pin front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along edging. (Overstitch front part upward the notch determining
end of stitching the collar in). Stitch lower edges of front bands to front
part along marked hem line. Cut seams of upper/lower corners of edging.
Topstitch edging’s overstitching allowance on front band at closure and at
front edging at lapels. (Topstitch at 0.2 cm from seam.) Turn edgings right
side out.
8. Stitch
middle back seam and press it apart. Stitch relieve back seams and press them
apart. Stitch shoulder/side seams, then press seams apart.
9. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front band, then press seams apart.
Stitch inner collar into jacket neckline, stitch outer collar into edges of
back neckline facing/front band.
10. Stitch
elbow seams and press it apart. Press sleeve hems into wrong side. Stitch
sleeve front seams and press them apart.
11. Stitch sleeve into armholes according to notches.
Sew shoulder pads.
12. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeve
in, leaving a hole into right front seam of a sleeve and waistband hole into
left side seam.
13. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Press allowances
of seam joining the collar apart and fix them close to seams.
14.
Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out trough
sleeve hole. Stitch hole’s edges together.
15. Make
buttonholes into right front edging, sew buttons on left one.