YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric; fusing; lining;
shoulder pads; Velcro.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment/sleeve hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric
1. Center front part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Center back part – 2 pieces
4. Side back part – 2 pieces
5. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces
6. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Front band – 2 pieces
9. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
10. Front yoke – 2 pieces
11. Flap_1
– 2 pieces
12. Flap
side – 1 piece
13. Patch
pocket_1 – 1 piece
14. Flap_2
– 8 pieces
15.
Pocket_2 side – 4 pieces
16. Patch
pocket_2 – 4 pieces
Lining:
1. Center
front part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Center back part – 2 pieces
4. Side back part – 2 pieces
5. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, flap, back neckline facing, center/side front parts, outer collar.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, flap, back neckline facing, center/side front parts, outer
collar.
2. Stitch
back darts and press them towards the center.
3. Lay
stand-ups right sides together and overstitch them. Cut corner seams, turn them
right side out and press the stand-up.
4. Stitch
middle back seam and press it apart.
5. Stitch
front/back relieve seams and press them apart.
6. Stitch
the yoke to front part, then press the seam apart.
7. Lay
upper flaps right sides together and overstitch them along outer contour. Turn
the flap right side out through upper open edge. Make decorative double stitch
at 0.2 cm from flap edge. Do the same for another flap. Mark pocket places on
front part. Neaten side edge of upper pocket’s facing. Stitch upper pocket’s
facing to side/lower edges of pocket, then neaten. Fold pocket’s upper edge
under, then topstitch. Make a pleat into pocket facing and fix it with the
pocket with vertical stitch of 1-1.5 cm length. Topstitch the pocket on
tacking. Topstitch the flap on tacking. Fold the flap into right side and
topstitch it at 0.2 cm from topstitching seam. Do the same for another pocket
(on the sleeve.)
8. Pin front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along edging. (Overstitch front part upward the notch determining
the end of stitching the collar in). Stitch lower edges of front bands to front
part along marked hem line. Cut seams of upper/lower corners of edging.
Topstitch edging’s overstitching allowance on front band at closure and at
front edging at lapels. (Topstitch at 0.2 cm from seam.) Turn edgings right
side out.
9. Stitch shoulder/side seams, then press seams apart.
10. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front band, then press seams apart.
Stitch inner collar into jacket neckline, stitch outer collar into edges of
back neckline facing/front band.
11. Stitch
elbow seams and press it apart. Mark pocket/flap place on the sleeve, then
topstitch pockets/flaps on the sleeve. Press sleeve hems into wrong side.
Stitch sleeve front seams and press them apart.
12. Stitch sleeve into armholes according to notches.
Sew shoulder pads.
13. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeve
in, leaving a hole into right front seam of a sleeve.
14. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Press allowances
of seam joining the collar apart and fix them close to seams.
15.
Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out trough
sleeve hole. Stitch hole’s edges together.
16. Sew Velcro.