YOU NEED: wool/semi-wool; fusing; 1 button; lining;
shoulder pads.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment/sleeve hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Inner collar – 1 piece
2. Outer collar – 1 piece
3. Side front part – 2 pieces
4. Flap – 4 pieces
5. Front band – 2 pieces
6. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
7. Side back part – 2 pieces
8. Center back part – 2 pieces
9. Center front part – 2 pieces
10. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
11. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Center
front part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Center back part – 2 pieces
4. Side front part – 2 pieces
5. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Small
pocket – 2 pieces
8. Large
pocket – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, reinforcement stripe, center front part, jacket/sleeve hems, back
neckline facing, outer collar, flap.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to front
band, center front part, jacket/sleeve hems, back neckline facing outer collar,
flap.
2. Stitch
back darts and press them towards the center. Stitch front darts, slash darts’
depths and press them apart.
3. Lay
flaps right sides together, then overstitch. Cut allowances of flap corners and
turn them right side out. Press
seams.
4. Fix
pocket entrance with reinforcement stripe or tack it together. Stitch
front/back relieve seams and press them apart.
5. Cut facing of side slit pocket and apply the
reinforcement stripe at pocket entrance. Mark pocket place. Press pocket
facings along the center right side out. Mark auxiliary line parallel facing’s
bending. Mark auxiliary line parallel to flap’s upper edge measuring flap’s
width along its length. Mark auxiliary lines parallel pocket entrance for
stitch the flap and pocket facings to. Stitch pocket lining to flap. Stitch
facings to front part. Stop stitching at parallel lines of pocket marking.
Check if facings were stitched correctly (stitches on wrong side must be
parallel.) Cut pocket entrance. Cut diagonal notches at 1-1.5 cm from pocket
ends. Turn facings into wrong side through notches to make facing’s pressed
bendings meet. Make double reverse stitches on pocket ends’ wrong side (along
corner’s bases.) Insert the flap into pocket and stitch it to pocket’s upper
facing. Stitch pocket’s lower lining along the seam joining lower facing, cut
it and stitch pocket lining.
6. Lay
outer collar on lower one, then overstitch. Cut seams at corners, turn right
side out, then press the collar.
7. Pin front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along edging. (Overstitch front part upward the notch determining
the end of stitching the collar in). Stitch lower edges of front bands to front
part along marked hem line. Cut seams of upper/lower corners of edging.
Topstitch edging’s overstitching allowance on front band at closure and at
front edging at lapels. (Topstitch at 0.2 cm from seam.) Turn edgings right
side out.
8. Stitch middle
back seam and press it apart. Stitch shoulder/side edges, then press seams
apart.
9. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front band, then press seams apart.
Stitch inner collar into jacket neckline, stitch outer collar into edges of
back neckline facing/front band.
10. Stitch
elbow seams and press it apart. Press sleeve hems into wrong side. Stitch
sleeve front seams and press them apart.
11. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
Sew shoulder pads.
12. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeve
in, leaving a hole into right front seam of a sleeve.
13. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Press allowances
of seam joining the collar apart and fix them close to seams.
14.
Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out trough
sleeve hole. Stitch hole’s edges together.
15. Make
a buttonhole into right front edging, sew the button on left one.