YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric, fusing; lining; shoulder
pads. 4 buttons, 6 buttons of smaller diameter for sleeve vents.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment/sleeve hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Collar – 2 pieces
4. Lapel – 2 pieces
5. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
6. Front bands – 2 pieces
7. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Back
part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
bands, front part, back neckline facing, collar, lapels.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front bands, front part, back neckline facing, collar, lapels.
2. Stitch
back darts and press them towards the center. Stitch front darts and press them
towards the center.
3. Stitch the lapel to collar, press
joining seam apart.
4. Stitch
middle back seam and press it apart.
5. Stitch
shoulder/side seams, then press seams apart.
6. Lay
inner collar with lapels into front/back neckline. Press joining seam apart.
7. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front bands together. Press shoulder
seams of facing/front bands apart. Stitch outer collar with lapels into front
band/facing neckline. Press
joining seam apart.
8. Pin front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along edging. (Overstitch front part upward the notch determining
the end of stitching the collar in). Stitch lower edges of front bands to front
part along marked hem line. Cut seams of upper/lower corners of edging.
Topstitch edging’s overstitching allowance on front band at closure and at
front edging at lapels. (Topstitch at 0.2 cm from seam.) Turn edgings right
side out.
9. Stitch
elbow seam and vent corner at lower/upper sleeves. Press elbow seam apart, make
a notch and press the vent apart. Press sleeve hems into wrong side. Stitch
sleeve front seam and press it apart.
10. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
Sew shoulder pads.
11. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeve
in, leaving a hole into right front seam of a sleeve.
12. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Press allowances
of seam joining the collar apart and fix them close to seams.
13.
Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out trough
sleeve hole. Stitch hole’s edges together.
14. Make
buttonholes into right edging, sew buttons on left one. Sew buttons on sleeves.