YOU NEED: wool/semi-wool; fusing; lining; shoulder
pads; 5 buttons; 3 zippers (for pockets).
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 2,5 cm for garment/sleeve hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Side back part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Front band – 2 pieces
4. Collar – 2 pieces
5. Center back part – 2 pieces
6. Right center front part – 1 piece
7. Left center front part – 1 piece
8. Upper pocket’s facing – 2 pieces
9. Upper pocket’s large facing – 1 piece
10. Sleeve
– 2 pieces
11. Cuff –
2 pieces
12. Back
neckline facing – 1 piece
13.
Pocket’s large facing – 2 pieces
14. Placket
– 1 piece
Lining:
1. Side
back part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Center back part – 2 pieces
4. Center
front part – 2 pieces
5. Sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Upper pocket’s
small lining – 1 piece
7. Pocket’s
small lining – 2 pieces
Fusing:
front band, back neckline facing, reinforcement,
outer collar, center front part.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, back neckline facing, outer collar, center front part
2. Mark
placket’s place on left front part. Press placket’s side edges under and
topstitch the details on left front part in accordance with marking.
3. Stitch
back darts and press them towards the center.
4. Lay
outer collar on inner one and overstitch them. Press the collar.
5. Stitch
front relieves and press them apart.
6. Mark lower/upper pockets’ place. Apply the
reinforcement stripe at pockets’ entrances. Press pocket facings along the
center right side out. Mark auxiliary line parallel facing’s bending. Mark
auxiliary lines parallel pocket entrance for stitch the flap and pocket facings
to (front part). Stitch facings to front part. Stop stitching at parallel lines
of pocket marking. Check if facings were stitched correctly (stitches on wrong
side must be parallel.) Cut pocket entrance. Cut diagonal notches at 1-1.5 cm
from pocket ends. Turn facings into wrong side through notches to make facing’s
pressed bendings meet. Make double reverse stitches on pocket ends’ wrong side
(along corner’s bases.) Stitch the zipper in. Stitch pocket’s large lining to pocket’s
upper facing. Stitch pocket’s small lining into the seam joining lower facing;
cut, then stitch pocket’s linings together. Do the same for upper/lower
pockets.
7. Cut
fabric stripe of 3 cm width for loops. Fold the stripe along the center and
topstitch at 0.5 cm from bending overstitching one end. Turn the stripe right
side out and press it. Cut the stripe and fold pieces to make loops. Tack loops
to right front part according to marks.
8. Pin front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along edging. Stitch lower edges of front bands to front part along
marked hem line. Cut seams of lower corners of edging. Topstitch edging’s
overstitching allowance on front band at closure (stop stitching 3 cm before
neckline and lower corner). (Topstitch at 0.2 cm from seam.) Turn edgings right
side out.
9. Stitch
back relieves and press them apart. Stitch middle back seam and press it apart.
Stitch shoulder/side edges and press seams apart.
10. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front band, then press seams apart.
Stitch inner collar into jacket neckline, stitch outer collar into edges of
back neckline facing/front band.
11. Press
the cuff along the center right side out. Stitch cuff’s side edge, press side
seam apart. Press the cuff along the center. Stitch sleeve seam and press it
apart. Stitch cuffs to sleeve’s lower hems.
12. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
Sew shoulder pads.
13. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeve
in, leaving a hole into sleeve seam.
14. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Press allowances
of seam joining the collar apart and fix them close to seams.
15.
Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out trough
sleeve hole. Stitch hole’s edges together.
16. Sew buttons on left front part.
Our advice: Take raglan shoulder pads to make slope shoulders. The length of 1 loop is 2xbutton’s diameter+4.