YOU NEED: wool/semi-wool; fusing; separating zipper;
lining; shoulder pads.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for sleeve hems, 3.5 for
garment hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Side back part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Front band – 2 pieces
4. Collar – 2 pieces
5. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Center back part – 2 pieces
8. Front yoke – 2 pieces
9. Center front part – 2 pieces
10. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Side
back part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Center back part – 2 pieces
6. Front yoke – 2 pieces
7. Center
front part – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, back neckline facing, outer collar, center front part.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, back neckline facing, outer collar, center front part.
2. Stitch
center front part to side front part, press the seam apart.
3. Stitch
the yoke to front part. Press the seam apart.
4. Lay
outer collar on inner one and overstitch them. Press the collar.
5. Stitch
back relieves and press them apart. Stitch middle back seam and press it apart.
6. Lay
font parts right sides together, then adjust edges measuring edgings’ length.
Stitch the zipper to edgings. Press edgings into wrong side (at closure).
7. Pin front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along edging. (Overstitch front part upward the notch determining
the end of stitching the collar in). Stitch lower edges of front bands to front
part along marked hem line. Cut seam allowances at edging’s lower corners. Turn
edgings’ right side out. Topstitch edging at 0.5 cm distance.
8. Stitch side/shoulder seams and press them apart.
9. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front band, then press seams apart.
Stitch inner collar into jacket neckline, stitch outer collar into edges of
back neckline facing/front band.
10. Stitch
elbow seams and press it apart. Press sleeve hems into wrong side. Stitch
sleeve front seams and press them apart.
11. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
Sew shoulder pads.
12. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeve
in, leaving a hole into right front seam of a sleeve.
13. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Press allowances
of seam joining the collar apart and fix them close to seams.
14.
Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out trough
sleeve hole. Stitch hole’s edges together.