YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric, fusing, lining,
shoulder pads, 5 buttons, 6 buttons for sleeve vents.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment/sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Center back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Side front part – 2 pieces
4. Center front part – 2 pieces
5. Front
band – 2 pieces
6. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
7. Inner collar – 1 piece
8. Outer collar – 1 piece
9. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Center back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Side front part – 2 pieces
4. Center front part – 2 pieces
5. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, back neckline facing, center front part, outer collar.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, back neckline facing, center front part, outer collar.
2. Stitch
back darts and press them towards the center. Stitch front dart and slash its
depth. Press front dart apart.
3. Lay
outer collar on inner one and overstitch them. Press the collar.
4. Stitch
front relieve and press it apart.
5. Pin front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along edging. Stitch lower edges of front bands to front part along
marked hem line. Cut seams of lower corners of edging. Topstitch edging’s
overstitching allowance on front band at closure (stop stitching 3 cm before
neckline and lower corner). (Topstitch at 0.2 cm from seam.) Turn edgings right
side out.
6. Stitch
middle back seam and press it apart. Stitch back relieves and press them apart.
Stitch shoulder/side seams and press them apart.
7. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front band, then press seams apart.
Stitch inner collar into jacket neckline, stitch outer collar into edges of
back neckline facing/front band.
8. Stitch
elbow seams and vents’ corners at upper/slower sleeves. Press elbow seams
apart, make notches and press vents. Press sleeve hems into wrong side. Stitch
sleeve front seams and press them apart.
9. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
Sew shoulder pads.
10. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeve
in, leaving a hole into right front seam of a sleeve.
11. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Press allowances
of seam joining the collar apart and fix them close to seams.
12.
Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out trough
sleeve hole. Stitch hole’s edges together.
13. Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons on left one. Sew buttons on vents.