YOU NEED: wool/semi-wool; fusing; 3 buttons; lining;
shoulder pads.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3.5 cm for garment/sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Center back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Side front part – 2 pieces
4. Center front part – 2 pieces
5. Middle front part – 2 pieces
6. Front band – 2 pieces
7. Inner collar – 1 piece
8. Outer collar – 1 piece
9. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
11. Pocket
– 2 pieces
12. Front flap – 4 pieces
13. back neckline facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Center back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Side front part – 2 pieces
4. Center front part – 2 pieces
5. Middle front part – 2 pieces
6. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Closure lining – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, outer collar, back neckline facing, closure lining, center front part.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, outer collar, back neckline facing, closure lining, center
front part.
2. Lay
flaps on under-flaps right sides together, then overstitch. Cut allowances of
flaps’ corners, then turn them right side out. Neaten flaps’ free edges. Press flaps. Lay outer collar in lower one, then
overstitch. Press the collar.
3. Stitch
middle front part to center front part. Press the seam apart. Stitch side front
part to middle front part. Press the
seam apart.
4. Mark
pocket place. Stitch pocket lining to pocket’s upper edge and stitch
pocket/lining edges together along the contour leaving a hole of 5 cm length
into side seam (to turn the pocket right side out.) Cut allowances of rounded
corners and turn the pocket right side out. Press the pocket. Topstitch the
pocket in accordance with marking. Mark flap place. Stitch the flap on marking.
Fold the flap downwards and topstitch at 0.5 cm from joining seam.
5. Mark
closure slit into right front band with three lines: the first line is parallel
to edgings and goes at 2 cm from edging as ready; the second and the third
lines limit closure length. Lay reinforced facing on front band right sides
together coinciding facing’s edge and marked line. Make a stitch at 0.5 cm from
closure slit up to lines that limit closure length. Lay closure’s second facing
to the stitch joining the first facing so that facings meet, and make a stitch
at 0.5 cm distance. Check if
facings were stitched correctly (stitches on wrong side must be parallel.) Cut
pocket entrance. Cut diagonal notches at 1-1.5 cm from pocket ends. Turn
facings into wrong side through notches to make facings-made frame equal the
width between stitches. Make fixing stitch along the seam joining the facing.
Press the second facing towards front band’s inner edge at 0.1 cm from the seam
joining the facing. Make buttonholes. Fix closure’s ends with double reverse stitch along
wrong side of corners’ bases. Stitch facings’ edges together. Make fixing
stitches between each pair of buttonholes (1 fixing stitch’s length is equal to
frame’s width). Press front band.
6. Pin front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along edging. (Overstitch front part upward the notch determining
the end of stitching the collar in). Stitch lower edges of front bands to front
part along marked hem line. Cut seams of upper/lower corners of edging.
Topstitch edging’s overstitching allowance on front band at closure and at
front edging at lapels. (Topstitch at 0.2 cm from seam.) Turn edgings right
side out.
7. Stitch
middle back seam and press it part. Stitch shoulder/side seams and press them
apart.
8. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front band, then press seams apart.
Stitch inner collar into jacket neckline, stitch outer collar into edges of
back neckline facing.
9. Stitch
elbow seams and press it apart. Press sleeve hems into wrong side. Stitch
sleeve front seams and press them apart.
10. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
Sew shoulder pads.
11. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeve
in, leaving a hole into right front seam of a sleeve.
12. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Press allowances
of seam joining the collar apart and fix them close to seams.
13.
Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out trough
sleeve hole. Stitch hole’s edges together.
14. Make
buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons on left one.