YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric; fusing; 3 buttons;
lining; shoulder pads.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment/sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Center back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Side lower front part – 2 pieces
4. Side upper front part – 2 pieces
5. Center upper front part – 2 pieces
6. Center lower front part – 2 pieces
7. Middle lower front part – 2 pieces
8. Middle upper front part – 2 pieces
9. Front band – 2 pieces
10. Inner collar – 1 piece
11. Outer collar – 1 piece
12. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
13. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
14. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Center back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Side lower front part – 2 pieces
4. Side upper front part – 2 pieces
5. Center upper front part – 2 pieces
6. Center lower front part – 2 pieces
7. Middle lower front part – 2 pieces
8. Middle upper front part – 2 pieces
9. Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
10. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing:
front band, outer collar, back
neckline facing, center upper front part, center
lower front part, middle upper front part, middle
lower front part, side upper front part, side
lower front part.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to front
band, outer collar, back neckline facing, center upper front part, center lower
front part, middle upper front part, middle lower front part, side upper front
part, side lower front part.
2. Lay
outer collar on inner one and overstitch. Cut seams at corners, turn right side
out and press the collar.
3. Stitch
middle lower front part to center lower front part. Press joining seam and
topstitch at 0.5 cm from seam. Stitch side lower front part to middle lower
front part. Press joining seam apart and topstitch at 0.5 cm from seam. Stitch
middle upper front part to center upper front part. Press joining seam and
topstitch at 0.5 cm from seam. Stitch side upper front part to middle upper
front part. Press joining seam apart and topstitch at 0.5 cm from seam. Stitch
upper front part to lower front part. Press joining seam apart and topstitch at
0.5 cm from seam.
4. Pin front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along shaped edging. (Overstitch front part towards the notch that
determines where stitching the collar in stops.) Stitch lower edges of front
bands to front part along marked hem line. Cut seams of upper/lower corners of
edging. Topstitch edging’s overstitching allowance on front band at closure and
at front edging at lapels. (Topstitch at 0.2 cm from seam.) Turn edgings right
side out.
5. Stitch back relieves and press them apart.
Topstitch at 0.5 cm from seam. Stitch middle back seam and press it apart.
6. Stitch shoulder/side
seams.
7. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front band, then press seams apart.
Stitch inner collar into jacket neckline, stitch outer collar into edges of
back neckline facing.
8. Stitch
elbow seam and press it apart. Press sleeve hems into wrong side. Stitch sleeve
front seam and press it apart.
9. Stitch sleeve into armholes. Sew shoulder pads
10. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeve
in, leaving a hole into right front seam of a sleeve and waistband hole into
left side seam.
11. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Press allowances
of seam joining the collar apart and fix them close to seams.
12.
Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out trough
sleeve hole. Stitch hole’s edges together.
13. Make
buttonholes into right front edging, sew buttons on left one.