YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric; fusing; lining;
shoulder pads; piping; 2 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Flounce
– 3 pieces
3. Flounce facing – 1 piece
4. Front part – 2 pieces
5. Collar – 4 pieces
6. Back
neckline facing – 1 piece
7. Center front part – 6 pieces
8. Front band – 2 pieces
9. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
11. Flap – 4 pieces
12. Pocket – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: back
neckline facing, outer collar, front band.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of back neckline facing, outer collar, front band.
2. Stitch back darts, slash
darts’ depths, then press them apart.
3. Stitch
front darts, slash depths, then press them apart.
4. Lay
flaps right sides together, then overstitch. Cut allowances of flap corners,
then turn right side out. Press the flap, neaten flap’s free edge.
5. Mark
pocket’s place on front part. Overstitch the pocket along the contour. Press
upper edge of patch pocket into wrong side, then topstitch. Press neatened
edges into wrong side. Topstitch the pocket in accordance to marking. Mark
flap’s place. Stitch the flap to marking. Fold the flap downwards and topstitch
at 0.5 cm from joining seam.
6. Stitch
the collar to center front part, neaten joining seam, then press apart (do this
3 times).
7. Stitch
the collar to front band, press joining seam apart.
8. Stitch
middle back seam and press it apart.
9. Neaten
side edges of flounce/center front part. Stitch seams and press them apart.
Stitch side edges if front band/flounce facing and press them apart.
10. Press
the piping along the center and overstitch collar’s outer edge and center front
part.
11. Stitch
side/shoulder edges, press side/shoulder seams apart.
12. Lay
center front parts together, adjust edges and stitch them to front/back parts.
Stitch inner collar into back neckline.
13. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front band. Press shoulder edges of
facing/front band. Stitch outer collar into facing/front band neckline.
14. Pin front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along edging, fly collar and flounce’s lower edge. Cut seams of
upper/lower corners of edging. Topstitch edging’s overstitching allowance on front
band at closure and at front edging at lapels. (Topstitch at 0.2 cm from seam.)
Turn edgings right side out.
15. Stitch
elbow seam and press it apart. Press sleeve hems into wrong side. Stitch sleeve
front seam and press it apart.
16. Stitch sleeve into armholes. Sew shoulder pads.
17. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeve
in, leaving a hole into right front seam of a sleeve and waistband hole into
left side seam.
18. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Press allowances
of seam joining the collar apart and fix them close to seams.
19.
Stitch the lining to flounce facing and sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side
out trough sleeve hole. Stitch hole’s edges together.
20. Make
buttonholes into right front part, ser buttons on left one.