YOU NEED: natural/mixing fabric; fusing; 14 buttons;
lining; shoulder pads.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment/sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Side front part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Center back part – 2 pieces
4. Yoke – 2 pieces
5. Center front part – 2 pieces
6. Front band – 2 pieces
7. Inner collar – 1 piece
8. Outer collar – 1 piece
9. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
11. Back
neckline facing – 1 piece
12. Flap –
4 pieces
13.
Placket – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Side
front part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Center back part – 2 pieces
4. Yoke – 2 pieces
5. Center front part – 2 pieces
6. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing:
front band, back neckline facing, center
front part, side front part, yoke, outer collar, flap.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, back neckline facing, center front part, side front part,
yoke, outer collar, flap.
2. Stitch
back darts and press them towards the center.
3. Stitch
side front part to center front part. Press the seam apart. Stitch the yoke to
front part. Press the seam apart.
4. Lay
flaps right sides together, then overstitch. Cut allowances of flap’s corners,
then turn them right side out. Lay outer collar on inner one, then overstitch.
Cut seams in corners, turn right side out and press the collar.
5. Cut facing of side slit pocket and apply the
reinforcement stripe at pocket entrance. Mark pocket place. Press pocket
facings along the center right side out. Mark auxiliary line parallel facing’s
bending. Mark auxiliary line parallel to flap’s upper edge measuring flap’s
width along its length. Mark auxiliary lines parallel pocket entrance for
stitch the flap and pocket facings to. Stitch pocket lining to flap. Stitch
facings to front part. Stop stitching at parallel lines of pocket marking.
Check if facings were stitched correctly (stitches on wrong side must be
parallel.) Cut pocket entrance. Cut diagonal notches at 1-1.5 cm from pocket
ends. Turn facings into wrong side through notches to make facing’s pressed bendings
meet. Make double reverse stitches on pocket ends’ wrong side (along corner’s
bases.) Insert the flap into pocket and stitch it to pocket’s upper facing.
Stitch pocket’s lower lining along the seam joining lower facing, cut it and
stitch pocket lining.
6. Pin front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along edging. (Overstitch front part upward the notch determining
end of stitching the collar in). Stitch lower edges of front bands to front
part along marked hem line. Cut seams of upper/lower corners of edging.
Topstitch edging’s overstitching allowance on front band at closure and at
front edging at lapels. (Topstitch at 0.2 cm from seam.) Turn edgings right
side out.
7. Stitch
back relieves and press them apart. Stitch middle back seam and press it apart.
8. Stitch shoulder/side seams and press them apart.
9. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front band, then press seams apart.
Stitch inner collar into jacket neckline, stitch outer collar into edges of
back neckline facing.
10. Stitch
elbow seams and press it apart. Press sleeve hems into wrong side. Stitch
sleeve front seams and press them apart.
11. Stitch sleeve into armholes according to notches.
Sew shoulder pads.
12. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeve
in, leaving a hole into right front seam of a sleeve and waistband hole into
left side seam.
13. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Press allowances
of seam joining the collar apart and fix them close to seams.
14.
Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out trough
sleeve hole. Stitch hole’s edges together.
15. Make buttonholes into front parts.
16. Fold plackets right sides together. Overstitch them leaving a 7-cm hole into placket’s short lower side. Cut allowances of plackets’ corners, then turn right side out. Press the placket and topstitch the contour at 0.5 cm from the edge. Sew buttons.