YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric, fusing, separating
zipper, lining; shoulder pads.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment/sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front
part – 2 pieces
3. Yoke – 2 pieces
4. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
5. Front
band – 2 pieces
6. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Half-belt – 2 pieces
9. Pocket – 2 pieces
10. Flap – 4 pieces
11. Belt – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Back
part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Yoke – 2 pieces
4. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Pocket – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, back neckline facing, front part, flap, outer collar, yoke.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, back neckline facing, front part, flap, outer collar, yoke.
2. Stitch
front/back darts, slash darts’ depths. Press front/back
darts apart.
3. Lay
flaps right sides together, then overstitch. Cut allowances of flap’s corners,
then turn them right side out. Lay outer collar on inner one, then overstitch.
Cut seams in corners, turn right side out and press the collar.
4. Mark
pocket’s place. Lay pocket details right sides together and stitch upper edges
together. Stitch pockets’ edges along the contour leaving a 5-cm hole into side
seam. Cut allowances of rounded corners and turn the pocket right side out.
Press the pocket. Topstitch the pocket in accordance with marking. Mark flap
place. Stitch the flap on marking. Fold the flap downwards and topstitch at 0.5
cm from joining seam.
5. Lay
front parts right sides together measuring edgings’ lengths. Stitch the zipper
to edging. Press edgings into wrong side at closure segment.
6. Stitch side/shoulder seams and press them apart.
7. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front band, then press seams apart.
Overstitch front/back necklines. Turn facing into wrong side, press seams.
8. Pin front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along edging and front/back necklines. (Topstitch front part
upwards.) Stitch lower edges of front bands to front part along marked hem
line. Cut edgings’ lower corners. Turn edgings right side out. Topstitch
edgings at 0.5 cm distance.
9. Fold
half-belt along the center wrong side out, overstitch along three edges leaving
belt’s side edge free. Turn half-belt right side out and press it. Stitch
half-belt to elbow edge.
10. Stitch
elbow seams and press it apart. Press sleeve hems into wrong side. Stitch
sleeve front seams and press them apart. Fix half-bent on sleeve front seam
with a stitch equal to half-bend’s width.
11. Stitch sleeve into armholes according to notches.
Sew shoulder pads.
12. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeve
in, leaving a hole into right front seam of a sleeve and waistband hole into
left side seam.
13. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing.
14.
Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out trough
sleeve hole. Stitch hole’s edges together.
15. Fold the belt along the center wrong side out, then overstitch along three edges leaving a hole of 5-7 cm (in belt’s longer edge.) Turn the belt right side out and press it. Topstitch belt’s contour at 0.5 cm from edge.