YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric; fusing; 4 buttons;
lining; shoulder pads.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment/sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Front band – 2 pieces
4. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
5. Flap – 4 pieces
6. Inner collar – 1 piece
7. Outer collar – 1 piece
8. Sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Cuff – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Front part – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, back neckline facing, front part, flap, outer collar, cuff.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, back neckline facing, front part, flap, outer collar, cuff.
2. Stitch
front/back darts, slash depths. Press front darts apart. Neaten back darts and
pres them towards back center.
3. Lay
flaps right sides together, then overstitch. Cut allowances of flap’s corners,
then turn them right side out. Lay outer collar on inner one, then overstitch.
Cut seams in corners, turn right side out and press the collar.
4. Stitch
the flap’s place on front part, fold it under and topstitch.
5. Pin front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along edging. (Topstitch front part upwards.) Cut edgings’ upper
corners. Remove pins. Tack overstitching allowance on front band at closure
segment, and on edging at lapels.
6. Stitch
middle back seam, neaten it and press it apart.
7. Stitch darts into lining front part. Neaten
shoulder edge of lining font part. Press darts. Neaten back hem. Press the hem into wrong side of front/back parts.
Stitch the lining to front band’s outer edge and overstitch the hem with
lining.
8. Stitch side edges folding back hem allowance into
back part’s right side as following: front part inserts into back hem lining.
Neaten side edges and press fold back hem allowance into wrong side.
9. Neaten
shoulder seams, stitch them and press them apart. Stitch shoulder edges of
front band/facing. Press seams apart. Stitch outer collar into facing neckline,
stitch inner collar into front/back necklines. Press joining seams apart and
fix allowance close to seams. Fix lining shoulder edges’ allowance to jacket’s
shoulder edge.
10. Make
pleats into sleeve caps and sleeve hems. Press cuffs along the center right
side out. Stitch side edge, press side seam apart. Press cuffs along the
center. Neaten sleeve seams, then stitch them and press them apart. Stitch
cuffs to sleeve hems. Neaten joining seams.
11. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
Neaten joining seams. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from edging, along
collar contour and jacket hem. Remove tacking.
12. Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons on lift one.