5553 JACKET

 

YOU NEED: wool/semi-wool; fusing; 1 button; lining; shoulder pads.

 

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

 

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment/sleeve hems.

 

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

 

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Upper back part – 2 pieces

2. Center lower back part – 2 pieces

3. Side lower back part – 2 pieces

4. Back insert – 1 piece

5. Inner collar – 1 piece

6. Outer collar – 1 piece

7. Side lower front part – 2 pieces

8. Upper front part – 2 pieces

9. Center lower front part – 2 pieces

10. Front insert – 2 pieces

11. Front band – 2 pieces

12. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

13. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

Lining:

1. Front part – 2 pieces

2. Side part – 2 pieces

3. Back part – 2 pieces

4. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

5. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

 

Fusing: front band, outer collar, back neckline facing, upper front part, lower front part.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front band, outer collar, back neckline facing, upper front part, lower front part.

 

2. Stitch upper front/back darts. Press back darts towards back center, press front darts towards front center.

 

3. Lay outer collar on inner one and overstitch them. Press the collar.

 

4. Stitch center lower front part to side lower front part. Press the seam apart. Stitch front insert to lower front part. Press the seam apart and topstitch seam at 0.2 cm distance. Stitch upper front part to upper edge of front inert. Press the seam apart and topstitch at 0.2 cm distance.

 

5. Pin front band on front part right sides together and overstitch along edging. (Overstitch front part upward the notch determining end of stitching the collar in). Stitch lower edges of front bands to front part along marked hem line. Cut seams of upper/lower corners of edging. Topstitch edging’s overstitching allowance on front band at closure and at front edging at lapels. (Topstitch at 0.2 cm from seam.) Turn edgings right side out.

 

6. Stitch middle upper back seam and press it apart. Stitch middle center back seam and press it apart. Stitch center lower back part to side lower back part. Press the seam apart. Stitch back insert to lower back part. Press the seam apart and topstitch at 0.2 cm distance. Stitch upper back part to upper edge of back insert; press the seam apart and topstitch at 0.2 cm distance.

 

7. Stitch shoulder/side seams and press them apart.

 

8. Stitch shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front band, then press seams apart. Stitch inner collar into jacket neckline, stitch outer collar into edges of back neckline facing.

 

9. Stitch elbow seams and press it apart. Press sleeve hems into wrong side. Stitch sleeve front seams and press them apart.

 

10. Stitch sleeve into armholes according to notches. Sew shoulder pads.

 

11. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeve in, leaving a hole into right front seam of a sleeve and waistband hole into left side seam.

 

12. Stitch the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Press allowances of seam joining the collar apart and fix them close to seams.

 

13. Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out trough sleeve hole. Stitch hole’s edges together.

 

14. Make a buttonhole into right front edging, sew a button on left one.