YOU NEED: wool/semi-wool; fusing; 1 button; lining;
shoulder pads.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment/sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Upper back part – 2 pieces
2. Center lower back part – 2 pieces
3. Side lower back part – 2 pieces
4. Back insert – 1 piece
5. Inner collar – 1 piece
6. Outer collar – 1 piece
7. Side lower front part – 2 pieces
8. Upper front part – 2 pieces
9. Center lower front part – 2 pieces
10. Front
insert – 2 pieces
11. Front
band – 2 pieces
12. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
13. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Front
part – 2 pieces
2. Side part – 2 pieces
3. Back part – 2 pieces
4. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, outer collar, back neckline facing, upper front part, lower front part.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, outer collar, back neckline facing, upper front part, lower
front part.
2. Stitch
upper front/back darts. Press back darts towards back center, press front darts
towards front center.
3. Lay
outer collar on inner one and overstitch them. Press the collar.
4. Stitch
center lower front part to side lower front part. Press the seam apart. Stitch
front insert to lower front part. Press the seam apart and topstitch seam at
0.2 cm distance. Stitch upper front part to upper edge of front inert. Press
the seam apart and topstitch at 0.2 cm distance.
5. Pin front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along edging. (Overstitch front part upward the notch determining
end of stitching the collar in). Stitch lower edges of front bands to front
part along marked hem line. Cut seams of upper/lower corners of edging.
Topstitch edging’s overstitching allowance on front band at closure and at
front edging at lapels. (Topstitch at 0.2 cm from seam.) Turn edgings right
side out.
6. Stitch middle upper back seam and press it apart.
Stitch middle center back seam and press it apart. Stitch center lower back
part to side lower back part. Press the seam apart. Stitch back insert to lower
back part. Press the seam apart and topstitch at 0.2 cm distance. Stitch upper
back part to upper edge of back insert; press the seam apart and topstitch at
0.2 cm distance.
7. Stitch
shoulder/side seams and press them apart.
8. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front band, then press seams apart.
Stitch inner collar into jacket neckline, stitch outer collar into edges of
back neckline facing.
9. Stitch
elbow seams and press it apart. Press sleeve hems into wrong side. Stitch
sleeve front seams and press them apart.
10. Stitch sleeve into armholes according to notches.
Sew shoulder pads.
11. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeve
in, leaving a hole into right front seam of a sleeve and waistband hole into
left side seam.
12. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Press allowances
of seam joining the collar apart and fix them close to seams.
13.
Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out trough
sleeve hole. Stitch hole’s edges together.
14. Make
a buttonhole into right front edging, sew a button on left one.