YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric, fusing; separable
zipper; shoulder pads; clasp.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Right center front part – 1 piece
2. Left center front part – 1 piece
3. Front yoke – 2 pieces
4. Side front part – 2 pieces
5. Lower
back part – 2 pieces
6. Side back part – 2 pieces
7. Upper back part – 2 pieces
8. Back yoke – 2 pieces
9. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces
10. Back
neckline facing – 2 pieces
11. Front
band – 2 pieces
12. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
13. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
14. Flap –
4 pieces
15. Half-belt_1 – 2 pieces
16.
Half-belt_2 – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Center front part – 2 pieces
2. Front yoke – 2 pieces
3. Side front part – 2 pieces
4. Middle back pat – 2 pieces
5. Back yoke – 2 pieces
6. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Pocket – 4 pieces
9. Side back part – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, back neckline facing, right center front part, left center front part,
outer collar flap, strengthener.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, back neckline facing, right center front part, left center
front part, outer collar flap.
2. Make
two decorative stitches along side front part (in accordance with sketch).
Stitch front relieve stitches and press them apart. Make decorative stitch at
0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch front yoke to front part. Press the seam apart and
make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from the seam.
3. Stitch
upper back part to lower back part, press the seam apart and topstitch at 0.5
cm from the seam.
4. Stitch
back relieve seam, press it apart and topstitch at 0.5 cm from the seam.
5. Stitch
back yoke to back part, press the seam apart and topstitch at 0.5 cm from the
seam.
6. Stitch
middle back seam and press it apart.
7. Lay
flaps right sides together and overstitch. Cut corner allowances of flaps and
turn them right side out. Lay stand-ups right sides together and overstitch.
Cut seam at corners, turn right sides out and press the collar.
8. Press
on-piece placket into wrong side. Stitch the zipper to placket’s edge. Stitch
the zipper and press left front part’s edge under (NB: zipper is covered with
one-piece placket at right front part and goes along left front part’s edge.)
9. Pin front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along edging. (Topstitch front part upwards.) Stitch lower edges of
front bands to front part along marked hem line. Cut edgings’ lower corners.
Turn edgings
right side out.
10. Lay half-belt_1 and half-belt_2 right sides
together and overstitch them. Cut seams at corners, turn them right side out
and press half-belts. Lay half-bents to notches at side back part and topstitch
at 0.5 cm from edges.
11. Stitch
shoulder/side seams and press them apart.
12. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front band and press them apart. Stitch
inner collar into jacket neckline, stitch outer collar into back neckline facing’s/front
band’s edge. Topstitch edging at 0.5 cm from seam joining the zipper at right
front part; topstitch edges at 3.5 cm from left front edging.
13. Cut facing of side slit pocket and apply the
reinforcement stripe at pocket entrance. Mark pocket place. Press pocket
facings along the center right side out. Mark auxiliary line parallel facing’s
bending. Mark auxiliary line parallel to flap’s upper edge measuring flap’s
width along its length. Mark auxiliary lines parallel pocket entrance for
stitch the flap and pocket facings to. Stitch pocket lining to flap. Stitch
facings to front part. Stop stitching at parallel lines of pocket marking.
Check if facings were stitched correctly (stitches on wrong side must be
parallel.) Cut pocket entrance. Cut diagonal notches at 1-1.5 cm from pocket
ends. Turn facings into wrong side through notches to make facing’s pressed
bendings meet. Make double reverse stitches on pocket ends’ wrong side (along
corner’s bases.) Insert the flap into pocket and stitch it to pocket’s upper
facing. Stitch pocket’s lower lining along the seam joining lower facing, cut
it and stitch pocket lining.
14. Stitch
elbow seam and press it apart. Press sleeve hems into wrong side. Stitch sleeve
front seam and press it apart.
15. Stitch sleeve into armholes. Sew shoulder pads.
16. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeve
in, leaving a hole into right front seam of a sleeve.
17. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Press allowances
of seam joining the collar apart and fix them close to seams.
18. Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out trough sleeve hole. Stitch hole’s edges together.
19. Fix the clasp on half-belt.